It’s That Fluffy Time of Year Again

Goosander chicks hitching a ride

My friend Paul says the last week in May is the most inspiring of the year. The trees are are almost luminous green, the Devon and Cornish banks jostle with red, blue and yellow flowers and the air is filled with a background buzz of insects and birdsong.

This is the time when a kayak trip along a river is at its best. The freshwater margins are a magnet for birds and the water surface is a cloud of insects. I absolutely love to hear the enthusiastic chatter of Sedge and Reed Warblers, which only a few weeks ago were in a marsh somewhere the other side of the Sahara.

Reed Warbler giving it his all

Any stretch of fresh water will do. Even the canals are fizzing with new life. You never know what is going to pop up next! Maybe a tiny fluffy Moorhen chick…or two!!

Henry and I paddled a fifteen-mile section of the beautiful River Wye on two occasions in May. The first was a Bank Holiday weekend so the river was fairly choc full, of humans…

Bust River Wye

Even so we were thrilled to find what we had come to see. A family of Goosanders which were just a day or two out of the egg. With some chicks riding on mother’s back!

Goosander Family, River Wye

Goosanders are a truly wild duck that live in fast-flowing clear-water rivers and feed on fish. Usually they are very shy. On my local river, the Torridge, they will fly away as soon as I come round the corner a quarter of a mile away. On the River wye, however, they seem to have made a wariness concession to kayakers and canoeists and tolerate a close approach.

It’s not just that they clear off because they have to tend to their newly-hatched brood. Even non-breeding adults remain asleep on gravelly banks as you glide silently past only a few yards away.

They seem to have learnt that grinning and chatting ‘punters’ floating downstream at a leisurely pace represent no threat. They clearly consider that the slowness and predictable movement of the craft as well as the overall quietness causes minimal disturbance…that’s why I choose a kayak for my wildlife-watching!

Unlike Goslings and Mallard chicks that feast on Mayflies, Goosanders eat fish. Right from the word go. So tiny little ducklings have to learn to dive pretty smartish.

Some are not so adept, or maybe more reluctant, than others, it would appear…

Interestingly, during our first visit to the Wye, a few male Goosanders were evident, usually loafing about on the shore. Two weeks later they had all disappeared. leaving mothers and broods alone on the river.

So where do the males go as soon as their involvement in the reproduction process is complete?

Do they bunk of to the local pub?

Not exactly…certainly nowhere local anyway.

They disappear off to a fjord in the north of Norway, where they moult and stay until the ice forces them back south next winter! Amazing. A migration miracle that has only recently been discovered.

It makes the fascination of Goosanders even more intriguing.

Although I feel that Goosanders are the most magical bird on the river, it’s lovely to see other fluffy families enjoying the warmth of the early summer sunshine. The youngsters can’t resist that after lunch torpor.

Nap time for Mallard chicks…again

A relative newcomer to the Wye is the non-native Mandarin duck. Decades ago some birds escaped from collections and they have since spread over the whole of southern England.

They are an exceptionally dainty and attractive little duck, and we passed a whole load of newly hatched broods:

Mandarin, and chicks, River Wye

Their was one disappointment during our second Wye visit. We had expected a baby boom of cygnets, as we had passed over a dozen swans sitting on nests on our first trip. Unfortunately there were no cygnets at all and no sitting swans.

I think that heavy rain just after our first visit caused a sudden surge in river levels and washed out all the nests, which were only a foot or two above water level. A great pity.

The Canada Geese, which are quite happy to nest a bit further from the water’s edge, had no such problems:

Marching Goslings flanked by Mum and Dad

Goosander males note: goslings are cared for by BOTH parents.

It’s a magical time of year indeed.

Mallard
Goosander

Dolphins, Dolphins, Dolphins…and a few Porpoises

Flurry of Torbay Dolphins

I hadn’t seen any dolphins in Cornwall or Devon for many a moon, so I was keen for a reunion.

A suitable day arrived and as usual the lightest winds were in south Devon. Calm sea surface is the priority in order to see those fins from afar. Success rate is further enhanced if you are fortunate enough to have a spotter on the nearby headland. Even better if it is eldest son Henry who has the eyesight of a Peregrine Falcon and is a very accomplished wildlife photographer, so has his finger on the pulse of all things natural.

Eye in the Sky. Henry’s eyrie.

20/20 vision was not required to spot the first pod of dolphins, however. They were just off the headland. I have rarely seen Common Dolphins, which are essentially an offshore species, so close to the shore.

They were busily feeding and scattered about over quite a large area. It was a mix of ages as usual, although I didn’t observe any tiny calves.

The juveniles came over to have a nose at me as I sat quietly observing.

The younger individuals, although still irresistibly curious, stayed by mum’s side:

Common Dolphins, Torbay

The stiff current was dragging me south fast so I cranked up the paddle rate and was joined by an energetic and sploshy escort as I struggled back uptide…(video)

The thrill of this kind of encounter cannot be overemphasised. I am pleased that I can still generate enough of a pressure wave, by paddling as fast as my gnarled old guns will allow, to encourage a bit of dolphin bow-riding. It’s just about as good as it gets for a kayak-based wildlife enthusiast. Apart from a whale encounter, maybe.

By the time friend Will joined me out there the entire pod had disappeared, but Henry guided us in to a group which were cruising slowly about a mile offshore. This is not as easy as it sounds for those of us on the water in self-powered crafts that have a maximum speed of about 5mph.

Through binoculars Henry can see dolphins up to about three miles offshore, a distance that would take us the best part of an hour to cover. These were not that far out but were very tricky to locate. We were just about to give up the search when they suddenly appeared to our left and passed just in front of us.

One large dolphin, which must be an adult male, provided a memorable encounter:

Totally excellent.

It’s easy to overlook the porpoises that inhabit the edge of the tidal current off the headland. They are small and inconspicuous and not inquisitive like the dolphins. They are however very charming and have a characteristic explosive little puff that brings a smile to the face.

They hardly ever jump out, but one leapt right in front of Will as he was pressing the camera shutter!

The porpoises have to muscle in with all the other wildlife and boat traffic in the area. Torbay is a busy place.

Torbay Porpoises

Part of the fun of watching dolphins is there appearance is totally unpredictable and success is directly proportional to the amount of time you spend on the sea. You really have to grind out the miles.

Fortunately, when the dolphins are not around the sea is never dull because there are plenty of feathered friends for The Lone Kayaker to enjoy:

Razorbill and Guillemot

I was thrilled to see one of my favourite seabirds, a Pomarine Skua, pass a mile off the headland. En route from the South Atlantic to polar regions although possibly a bit lost as it was heading south.

Adults are stunning birds…this is an immature and my hastily snapped blurry pic certainly does not do it justice…

Immature Pomarine Skua

When Simon arrived as the sea glassed off in the evening all was quiet on the wildlife front, so we had to contend with some absorbing coastal scenery including exploring a cave or two.

Tough.

Simon

Let’s hope this is the start of a flourishing dolphin season

Henry (background). Dolphin (foreground)
The Lone Kayaker and Chums (pic: Henry Kirkwood)

(Title pic: Henry Kirkwood)

Picture Perfect Cornish Puffin

Cornish Puffin

Everybody loves a Puffin.

Observing such a perky little creature around the coast of Cornwall is not easy, however, because only a handful of birds breed on islands close to the mainland.

I have encountered them at two, possibly three sites. An island off Boscastle where there are two or three pairs; Puffin Island near Polzeath where there are approximately half-a-dozen pairs; maybe a pair on The Brisons off Land’s End.

I like to get a Puffin ‘fix’ each year, so when I noticed a forecast of slack winds and sunshine for a few hours one morning a couple of days ago I was braced for an early start.

As I paddled out into Port Isaac Bay at 6am the sea was completely flat and I could see the sun. There was only one problem…it was above a layer of dense fog.

I stuck close to the cliffs until the mist started to lift and I encountered my first major fog-bow. How cool is that?

Fog-bow…Port Isaac Bay

Equally as enthralling were hundreds, probably thousands, of Manx Shearwaters that were zipping past a few hundred metres offshore. They normally pass far out to sea but were clearly disorientated by the murk so, like me, were hugging the coast.

I couldn’t resist paddling out so that I could hear them whisk past my earholes.

Manx in the Mist

My approach to Puffin Island was timed to perfection because the mist was clearing just as I was ready to head offshore.

The mist thinneth

Picking out one or two Puffins bobbing amongst a throng of several hundred Guillemots and Razorbills might seem like an impossible task as they all look similar from a distance.

Fortunately it’s easier than you might think because they tend to be aloof of the main crowd and their white faces and dumpy deportment are visible from afar.

Today only one Puffin was on show.

It was extremely challenging to photograph as it was swimming in the strong tidal current between island and mainland which exaggerates any sort of waves.

The camera zoom also magnifies the movement of the kayak so as I was being bounced around I ended up with several hundred images of blurred patches of sea where a Puffin had just been.

To make matters worse my coffee tipped over.

Fortunately one or two pics made the cut:

Puffin Island Puffin

Taking photographs from only two feet above the surface of the water gives a very photogenic perspective of all the creatures I love to see. The lens is looking into their eye on just about the same level…nice!

Throw a few waves into the equation as well and you can actually be looking UP at your chosen subject…very nice indeed!

A view you could never get from a powered boat which is the normal, and sensible, way of getting out to see the Puffins of Cornwall.

Puffin on high
Cornish Puffin

The Puffin got peckish and disappeared below the surface, so I let the current carry me past the face of the island where the next item on the wildlife agenda was a large Guillemot colony. Many hundreds of birds were packed together on the ledges like ninepins.

Guillemot Colony, North Cornwall

A truly remarkable sight, made even more so when you appreciate the beauty of an individual bird up close. Paddling up to a Guillemot on the water is not necessary…if you sit absolutely still they will come to you!

Guillemot

The moment the wind started to blow I turned for the shore, but my bee-line was bent when I heard the pigeon-like cooing of a raft of Manx Shearwaters having a bit of a social.

I paddled quietly over to investigate and sat in the middle of an Improbability (the correct collective term for a group of shearwaters) of about three hundred individuals, soaking up the extreme natural and wilderness experience that few are lucky enough to enjoy.

Manx Shearwaters

All this was played out with a backdrop of dramatic Cornish cliffs which were still smouldering with the last of the early morning mist.

Rumps in the mist

Dave in the Cave

The North Cornwall Coast always causes jaws to drop.

Dave in the Cave

It’s an extreme kayak adventure playground that is rarely open for business for a motley assortment of geezers (some more geezery than others) who like a relaxing day out on flat water.

The groundswell from Atlantic depressions rolls in relentlessly and when combined with windchop, tidal current and backslop from the cliffs, called clapotis, usually results in too much of a roller-coaster ride to be appealing unless you are kayaking hardcore.

However as the season progresses and the energy of the sea eases, opportunities for a top day out become more frequent.

As happened a few days ago when we explored a section of coast within sight of Doc Martin’s surgery in Portwenn.

It was the perfect circuit that combined an offshore adventure with some close coastal exploration and caving.

Wildlife interest kicked off within five minutes of launch, with our first Barrel Jellyfish of the year.

Barrel Jelly

What a beauty with a perfect frilly fringe of lilac lining the umbrella.

Come to think of it, I don’t think I saw any Barrel Jellies in Cornwall last year. They are a good example of the natural fluctuation of the sea…some years there are hundreds, others none at all.

The tide sucked us nicely towards the island where a pair of Puffins were bobbing about. They are very challenging to photograph from a kayak because they favour swirly waters with strong tidal current where the kayak is bouncing around. Fortunately I managed one half-decent shot…

Cornish Puffin

The coast didn’t seem to be going past quite as quickly as I had expected because we were paddling against a stiff incoming tide, so we ducked in towards the shore to avoid it…and were soon absorbed in the vast rocky playground.

Mark at The Rumps

Lunch, even though it usually consists of a couple of curling sandwiches plus an item of interest from the back of the fridge, is a big part of the day of the motley crew.

So finding a nice little beach is very important.

Green lunch alert starts at about 1145. We only stop if the beach is absolutely spectacular.

Yellow lunch alert kicks in about 1215. A decent-looking haulout will do the job.

Red lunch alert is serious stuff and the light comes on as the clock ticks round towards one o’clock and the saliva begins to flow. Desperation takes over…anywhere will do.

Today we were getting a bit edgy as amber was on the verge of going red and Dave had promised us all a slice of pizza, with ice-cream and chocolate topping. Doggy bag from his big night out.

Unfortunately the plethora of sandy beaches were all covered by the high tide. All except one which had a tiny patch of sand still exposed. Appropriately the size of a dinner table.

So that is where we squeezed in to feast.

Dave looking particularly intrepid

Despite looking like the bottom of a rockpool when the tide was out, the pizza was well-received, as was Will’s home made flapjack.

Heading back along the coast a little lower in the waterline, our indulgence shifted from deli-dessert to some serious kayaking speliology.

A scenic arch gave us a taste of what was to come…

We were then lured towards a tempting little crack in the cliff that opened into yawning blackness.

Chambers disappeared off into the void left and right and we were surrounded by the thumping crumps of waves being compressed into small spaces surrounded us.

This is not my kind of happy place as ears and eyes rapidly start to play tricks and reality seems to go a bit weird.

Let’s get out of here

Dave, however, was in his element and was in no rush to emerge back into the daylight.

Dave and the Cave

Another great day out.

Beach, arch, cave, puffin, jelly, pizza plus a whole lot of sniggering.

Thumbs up all round.