Purple Patch

After a lean couple of months The Lone Kayaker has been in dream-world during the last week. Major wildlife encounters have been coming thick and fast.

The gales have abated and even though the weather has not yet sorted itself out into anything you might call spring, it’s a lot better than it has been.

Success has partly been down to giving myself a good kick up the backside and turfing out of bed earlier. When it comes to watching otters and beavers that really is appallingly early. But if you can be bothered to get on the water before the first Blackbird breaks into song, you might just get lucky.

This morning’s excitement was an otter on the river Torridge, although the first eye-boggler was a Roe Deer swimming across the river in front of me. I had only just set off and my brain hadn’t completely fired up so I was slow getting my camera out and only caught the last few seconds…

By the time I saw the otter porpoising towards me an hour later I was completed focussed in on everything that twitched or twittered. Ready to rock n roll.

I tucked in beside the bank and fortunately the otter chose to work it’s way up the far side of the river so I didn’t disturb it at all. As usual it came up with a crunchy snack after every dive, with one fish requiring a bit more serious attention with a visit to the shore:

It carried on upstream without getting a sniff of my presence, which I am always pleased about. It seemed full of the joys of spring, skipping through the water as energetically as any gambolling lamb in a field of green.

Otters are relentlessly hasty and borderline frantic and just can’t resist spending large amounts of time underwater, even when they are just getting from A to B.

They are a genuine aquatic creature.

Beavers are a bit different. If an otter is a twitchy sports car, a beaver is more of a Volvo estate.

They are measured and steady and are quite happy just swimming along at the surface for long distances. As we discovered during an early morning jaunt to the south of the county a few days previously.

Beaver incoming!

If you are ultra-observant you may have noticed the beaver’s head start to bob a little after it has swum past. That is because it was sniffing out a willow tree which it could not pass without stopping off for a bit of a munch. Those leaves are as fresh and crisp as an iceberg lettuce.

So it stopped off for a pit-stop snack as it made its way home to bed…

At the weekend there was a break in the wind, just for one day. In fact for a couple of hours the open sea off South Devon was completely smooth.

Will and Mark loafing a mile offshore.

So that’s where we found ourselves…exactly the right place at the right time. The planning was so good we even organised a pod of a dozen dolphins as well. There was plenty of chuckling and gasps of amazement as the briefly joined us for a bit of a race…

So…Beavers, Otters, Dolphins. All during the last five days. Totally tremendous.

At one of my Lone Kayaker talks recently somebody asked if I ever miss human interaction because I spend so much time immersed in the world of animals.

They politely hinted that I might start to lose the plot.

Not at all…as was demonstrated by my cheerful salutation as I passed a little family resting beside the bike trail while I was pedalling back to retrieve my car this morning…

Wind, Rain, Beavers and Otters

I’m not a fan of cliches but ‘every cloud has a silver lining’ would sum up the fortunes of the Lone Kayaker’s wildlife adventures over the last few weeks/months.

It’s not entirely appropriate, however. I guess for a cloud to have a silver lining it must have some sort of edge. The entire blanket of grey that has stretched from horizon to horizon recently gives no opportunity for any hope of ever seeing anything but drizzle again. There’s nothing remotely resembling a lining.

If you are a kayaker who wants to get out into the sea for a bit of fun you do not want to see a weather chart like this. Isobars (white lines) in the shape of a dartboard means wind and rain. A dartboard within a dartboard means it’s time to get the tiddlywinks out.

Pressure map 9 April 2024

However…the coastline of Devon and Cornwall is pierced by a whole load of little creeks that offer a bit of shelter from wind and swell. This is where I have been forced to lurk recently.

If you don’t want to become stranded on a bank of sludge or have your enthusiasm sucked dry by paddling against the flow you need to ‘go with the tides’.

That is why the kettle has been clicked on at the appallingly early hour of 0430, so I can be on the water as the first Blackbird song starts to welcome in the dawn. And to catch the current.

Fortunately, for wildlife-spotting, early is good. That is when the most elusive, shy and slithery of UK mammals make their way home after a big night out.

I have struck gold a couple of times recently.

Yesterday, just as it was getting light, a bow-wave was heading straight towards me:

Instant mega excitement…was it a small seal, otter or beaver? Seal no, it was progressing to steadily for that. Otter…also no…they just can’t resist a bit of underwater swimming. And it wasn’t fast and frantic enough for an otter. This was a bit of a steady Eddie. A beaver!

I sat without daring to breathe and it swam right on past…

Although it was clearly on a mission to get to bed it couldn’t resist a bit of a late night/early morning snack. Those newly emerged, crispy-fresh willow leaves just could not be ignored:

Beaver eating Willow Shoots

It was excellent to see that great spatula of a tail sticking out of the water…that’s a first for me. I have been the subject of a ‘tail-slap’ of alarm before, but I’ve never actually seen one before on a wild beaver in UK. They are usually below the water.

The furry rodent and I parted ways when it continued downstream and I continued up. I always like to clock up a few miles on my trips to make the whole thing worthwhile.

However I was feeling a bit pooped after my ultra early start so drove my kayak into a riverside bush for a revitalising cup of coffee.

I am fully aware that sitting in a kayak all alone in a bush in a river at 6.30am is a bit of a weird thing to do…but I love it. Just listen to that dawn chorus! Blackbird and Song Thrush backed up by Wren, Robin, Blue Tit and Woodpigeon.

Then it got a whole lot better.

As I slurped, my eyes popped out on stalks because another beaver was heading directly towards me!!

You can see that this beaver, unfortunately, got wind of me. When a beaver or an otter ‘log’ on the surface they have just sensed that you are there. In fact you can see this one sniffing before it decides to take evasive action.

It wasn’t too spooked, however. I watched it surface a few metres away and carry on downstream, apparently unperturbed.

Yes you can disturb wild animals in a kayak, but because they…the kayaks…are so quiet and slow-moving the disturbance is about as minimal as it can be.

The beaver amazement wasn’t over, because a couple of miles further upstream I passed a load of perfectly snipped and stripped willow shoots floating down the river. Although it looks as though I am attempting to eat my muesli with chopsticks, it was clearly the work of a hungry beaver which had probably just sneaked off to bed before I came round the corner.

Beaver breakfast, above. Lone Kayaker breakfast, below.

So, in a couple of hours, I had seen three beavers and found evidence of more… totally unbelievable.

Just to make your gaping jaw sag even further towards the floor, I saw the same beaver on two successive days at PRECISELY the same time in EXACTLY the same place. They are clearly creatures of routine.

OK it’s actually one minute time difference if you want to be picky.

See the evidence for yourself…this beaver has a smudge of whitish fur on the side of it’s face…

Smudge the Beaver 0700 7/4/24
Smudge the Beaver 0701 8/4/24

Although otters are broadly similar in appearance to beavers and live in the same sort of rivery place, a beaver looks like a land mammal taking a swim whereas an otter slithers about in the manner of a full-time aquatic creature such as a dolphin. Or a porpoise!

Otter family porpoising

If you hear the chirp of a young otter you are in for a bit of a treat, because otter pups have got playfulness hotwired into their mojo:

Watch the hurdling effort…not quite up to Sally Gunnell standard maybe, but good effort…

Unfortunately this chirp was more of a cry…

…and although I did then watch mum turn up with a fish I’m not too sure how healthy the pup was. it seemed a bit subdued and fluffed up to me.

In contrast to a decade ago I rarely see large fish such as sea trout and salmon jumping in the big rivers so a major source of food for the otters has declined. I think the same probably applies to eels. Are there enough fish to keep the super-active otters well fed?

It’s ten years since I saw a sight such as this…

Otter plus salmon

I get the impression that otters are robust and feisty as individuals, but delicate as a species.

They are also incredibly shy, unless they happen to want to come over for a bit of a chat…