Stream in the Sky

Pontcysyllite aqueduct

We were venturing to the other side of Offa’s Dyke to attend Guy and Lynn’s wedding, so decided to check out the Llangollen canal the day before. It had qualified for Unesco World Heritage status so must be worth a visit, and from a kayaking point of view the lure of paddling over the highest aqueduct in the world was hard to resist.

All the local rivers were in flood anyway so there wasn’t a lot of option.

We started off at Chirk, which is actually in England.

LLangollen canal at Chirk

Becky walked as I paddled along. Fortunately our cruising speeds were just about the same. It was all pleasantly scenic and quiet and peaceful, and very green.

Llangollen canal at Chirk

First up, on the remarkable feats of canal engineering, was the Chirk aqueduct, which at only seventy foot high was trifling compared to what was to come.

chirk aqueduct
Chirk aqueduct and Railway viaduct


Chirk tunnel followed immediately after the aqueduct. 460 yards long and a bit creepy in the middle where it is so dark you can’t even see your paddle.chirk tunnel.jpg

Although I had a pathetic little torch I wouldn’t trust a narrowboat entering the other end to notice it. Fortunately one didn’t appear.

Tunnel exit

Not surprisingly because of all the boat activity wildlife was a bit thin on the ground today, but it was great to see several families of Mandarin duck on the canal.

Mandarin duck

My timing for the passage past a swing bridge was perfect because a narrowboat was approaching and a very cheerful Canadian gentleman was working the hand winch.


The increasing number of sightseers bulging out of the canal boats hinted that something remarkable was just around the corner.P1320173

Of course they would all have preferred to be travelling by kayak, or at least that’s what they said.20190613_102540

It was time for the BIG viaduct. Pontcysyllite…..the Stream in the Sky. With less than a foot of parapet to protect you from a 126 foot drop it is not for the faint-hearted. Peering over giddy ledges usually makes my head spin but if I’m sitting in the seat of a kayak it doesn’t seem to be a problem. And if  Thomas Telford’s creation had stood firm without losing a drop of water for 214 years then it was probable it would see me to the other side and back (twice, because I couldn’t resist going over it again).20190613_103415P1320283




The canal somehow managed to maintain a very high level of visual appeal over the next five miles to Llangollen.

Sweeping through green fields,


past a cliffy bit,


and through neatly pruned gardens. As a bonus at one stage the sun almost threatened to come out, but then it started drizzling again.


We stopped for lunch at Llangollen wharf and consumed tuna and sweetcorn sandwiches. Unfortunately they were a bit fizzy because I had made them yesterday morning before we left Devon.

The canal side was busy with tourists spilling out of the town for a boat trip. Both conventional and horse-drawn were on offer.

Llangollen wharf
Horse drawn canal boat

Following refuelling ( on the high octane sandwiches) the nine mile paddle back was relatively easy for me because there was a significant flow of water in the canal, but not so easy for Becky because the towpath remained motionless.

The Mandarin family attracted admirers;20190613_160702

and the afternoon swelled the number of visitors to the viaduct, many of whom were more interested in phone screens than the staggering view or mindboggling feat of engineering.P1320247

Time for one last sweep of the Gopro to take in the dizzying height.


For the final four miles to Chirk I was sucked along in the wake of a narrowboat. 20190613_104320





Blinking Cold

Blooming heck. It was warmer in February! Relentless rain and cold is not only hard work for a kayaker who was looking forward to easing in to a nicely ironed (Joke) pair of swimming shorts, it is also very bad news for nesting birds. The Sand Martins and Kingfishers that I saw beside the river Wye a couple of weeks ago will have had their nest holes flooded by the exceptionally high water  levels.

This little family of Mallard can at least find their own food as they paddle along, but they are very vulnerable to the cold and wet. They definitely know the best pace to avoid the rain, although getting there isn’t so straightforward.


Further down the Fowey estuary I witnessed what was nearly a family catastrophe as a mother Mallard was leading her brood down to the water for the first time. The nest had been in the foliage at the top of the bank, far above high tide level. An opportunist crow had spotted the posse and was looking to take advantage of their exposure as they made for the (relative) safety of the water. Only the awareness and courage of the mother saves the duckling that ends up momentarily floundering on its back, which the crow was just about to whisk away.


On this particular day I nosed out of the estuary for a good look at the open sea, but once again their didn’t seem to be a lot going on so I reverted to watching the wildlife of the creek. Even Lantic Bay beach, one of the best strands in Cornwall, didn’t look particularly welcoming. It was steely and grey. Not only did it look cold, it WAS cold.

lantic bay
Lantic Bay

Back up the estuary Herons were doing their thing:


and I got the impression that this Gull had ‘dealt’ with crabs of this size before. It avoids the (very large) claws and knows how to flip the crab over to expose the underside before hammering it with its beak.


The rain has eased and the temperature is getting back to where it should be for mid June. Time to get moving…..



Jelly, Babies



Above the surface the open sea remains very quiet with hardly a circling Gannet in sight. There are just a few Guillemots, which nest on the local cliffs,  sitting about doing a bit of fishing.  They are sometimes very inquisitive about kayaks and paddle right up close for a bit of a look.


This one all but climbed in my kayak. So close you can see the refection of me (plus boat) in its eyeball!P1300308-1

Below the surface it’s a different story, with large numbers of Barrel Jellyfish still wafting about, concentrating along the tidelines. They always give me a bit of a start when they are close to the surface because not only are they a bit ghostly but they are very BIG.



The marine wildlife has been so thin on the ground I have even had to resort to looking at the scenery, like a normal person. Tough.

Gorran Haven
Gorran Haven
St. Michael’s Mount

Along the shore I came across an ornithological treat near Marazion….this little pack of Sanderlings, rushing in and out with the waves, which is what Sanderlings do. You can see why; this one has just caught a snack-sized sand shrimp exposed by the waves:

Sanderling plus shrimp
Sanderling with Shrimp

This is them in action:



These Sanderlings were sporting a variety of colours because they were in transit from grey winter plumage to very smart buff breeding plumage. Although you might think it was getting a bit late in the season for this, they nest above the arctic circle so are not in any particular rush because their nesting area is still probably frozen solid.

Sanderlings (and Dunlin, back left))

Although these little birds are only on the cusp of smartening themselves up for the breeding season in the land of the summer sun, birds local to Devon and Cornwall are in full swing.

I did a bit of a double-take when I saw this Shelduck on the river Torridge. I assumed it was an adult because it could fly well and had classic Shelduck plumage apart from a bit of a white face, although it was significantly smaller than its parent.

Shelduck adult and juvenile

It must have been this year’s chick and a combination of cunning sleuth and smart mathematical calculation (incubation is 28 days and the young fly at 45 days) would suggest that it was the abnormally mild weather in late February that prompted the duck to lay her eggs three months earlier than usual.

juv Shelduck


A more seasonal brood of Shelduck was a bit further upstream:

Shelduck family

All along the coast as well New life is bursting forth. These are the first Herring gull chicks I have seen this year.

herring gull chicks
Herring Gull Family

And nearby the nestling Shags are swaying about in the nest in a very reptilian way.

shag family 2
Family Shag



Similar to the Shag the parent Canada Goose has a ‘yellow alert’ warning to its offspring (and me) when they perceive I am a bit close for comfort. The Goose does a bit of head-bobbing as well.


The youngsters don’t tend to take much notice of their parents (not a surprise) and anyway I always back away because it is unfair to worry them.

Unphased goslings
Large and Little

The Swans on the Torridge are still sitting on eggs. Although swans on the water cut a classic image of grace, elegance, and whiteness, they are quite cumbersome when on land. And a bit clumsy…this one makes a bit of a horlicks of the housework and actually falls out of the nest. The husband, no doubt.


The breeding cycle for birds is challenged by problems and threatened by danger from start to finish. These Housemartins from Bideford, like the ones down at Looe, have been forced to use estuarine mud to build their nests because there is no freshwater alternative as all the puddles have dried up due to lack of rain. I have never seen them using this source before, and hope the salty mud from brackish water is a good enough building brick.

Housemartin plus nest material

Lovely to see, but suddenly the whole lot took off at speed amid a clamour of trilling alarm notes as a Hobby falcon (which catch and eat Housemartins) raked overhead.


Life as a family of Mallard isn’t all fun and games either, as both mother and newly-hatched ducklings seem to attract unwanted attention. This little posse are lucky not to end up as dinner for a crow as they are left exposed when their mother is nearly mugged by a group of lairy males, and takes a while to get back to protect them.

mallard chicks

You can clearly hear (and see) the angst from Mrs.Mallard as the family are pursued by unwanted suitors, and the casual-looking crow on the bank which is thinking of a duckling-sized lunch.


The drakes force the mother to leave the little family vulnerable to attack from the prowling corvid.



Fortunately she soon returned and managed to guide them away from the aggressors and they found somewhere to chillax and process in the Spring sunshine. Happy ending. Phew.


Everywhere you look is a baby bird-fest at the minute. And drifting along in complete unobtrusive silence in a kayak is the best way to enjoy it.

Robin plus fledgling (photo taken from kayak, of course)





Start and Prawle Point

These two exposed headlands on the south Devon coast spend much of their time being battered by wind and waves, so are no-go to kayaks for long periods.

Our convoy of five, Dave, Simon, Richard, Martin and myself, chose our day carefully, and although we knew it would be almost windless all day we hadn’t expected 100% sunshine as well.

Richard, Dave, Martin and Simon

We set off from the ghost village of Hallsands and were soon being zipped around the tip of Start Point by the ebbing tide, which was more like paddling in a river.

This is a great place for a kayaker and has a wild and remote feel about it. Because it is.

Start Point

A handful of seals watched us paddle past and they gave the impression that they don’t come across many kayaks.

Start Point Grey Seal

I was not surprised to see seals but I was taken aback when I saw three tiny newly-hatched Shelduck chicks bobbing about along the open coast just half-a-mile past the point. Tiny little balls of fluff in a BIG BIG place. Probably the most exposed spot in the whole of Devon….most Shelducks nest up a sheltered estuary which would seem like a more sensible place to me.

Their  parents were around but very spooky which is typical of all Shelduck. They are over-wary of people.

Shelduck chicks
Shelduck chicks

The section of coast along to Prawle is excellent, with some great cliffy bits interspersed with sandy beaches.

Martin in his Nordkapp
Dramatic stuff (including the skyscape)

Prawle Point is Devon’s most southerly bit of land and we could feel the binoculared eyeballs of the coastwatch volunteers in their little hut at the top of the cliff staring down at us. I hope they were impressed with our professional paddling style and olympic rate of progress, and not hovering their fingers over the speeddial button for the helicopter.

Prawle Point
Prawle Point

Macely Cove was the perfect place to stop for lunch. It was about as idyllic as it could possibly have been for the middle of May.


We swung into the entrance of the Kingsbridge estuary just as the incoming tide was kicking in…perfect. We just HAD to stop for an icecream to celebrate. There were (quite) a few raised eyebrows as we slapped along the narrow streets in full kayaking gear, brushing past designer fashion and wafts of hairspray (or whatever the fancy smell was). It reinforced my plan to give my drysuit a bit of a rinse out anyway, which I have been meaning to do since Christmas.


It was a leisurely lope up the flat waters of the estuary to Kingsbridge. The Shags seemed used to a lot of boat traffic and didn’t bat an eyelid as we slipped past:

Relaxed-looking Shag

Our arrival at the slipway at Kingsbridge after a fifteen mile paddle was likewise timed to perfection, just as the water was covering the shoe-slurping mud. Just a case of a taxi ride back to Hallsands to get the cars.

Arrival in Kingsbridge



Dart at Dawn

I was keen to see whether the (not so common) harbour seals were still present in the Dart estuary, and because I wanted to catch a ride on the tide I had to set off just after dawn. It was finger-numbing chilly and visibility for seal-spotting wasn’t great (and it was blinking early) :

Early on the Dart

I heard the snort of a seal behind me but could see nothing but murk. As the sun rose the mist slowly thinned and the birdsong started to kick in. Loudest was the explosive short sequence of a Cetti’s warbler, which have only spread across the UK in the last twenty years or so.

After a couple of hours the sun eventually broke through and I slid across the glassy surface as I approached Dittisham and the most scenic part of the estuary. The narrower estuary makes the water a bit more active as the tide squeezes through, so this is a popular place for seals. Incidentally, the appalling creaking noise during this video is my drysuit as I pan the camera….apologies. I know it doesn’t really enhance the tranquility.

A seal popped up and I was very pleased to see it had the dished face of a Harbour (alias Common) seal. I just managed to get a snap before it disappeared for good. Harbour seals don’t seem to be as inquisitive as the usual Grey seals around here.

Harbour Seal
Harbour seal

I felt I had to ‘do’ the touristy side of Dartmouth as I waited for the tide to turn. From the kayak seat, of course.

Dartmouth higher ferry
Dartmouth ferry
dartmouth naval college
Dartmouth Naval College
Dartmouth sailing barge

The ten mile paddle back was peaceful and uneventful. For the last couple of miles I just about kept pace with a bull Grey seal who was clearly on a mission to get to the head of the estuary for high tide. Perhaps it had a penchant for Grey Mullet. I was paddling at fast cruising speed (4mph) and the seal came up for a breath every three minutes (or so) a hundred yards in front of me. It certainly covered the ground (water).

This is a good comparison pic of the Grey seal compared to the Harbour Seal. The Grey is much bigger ( so looks chunkier) and has that Roman nose which is more or less a straight line from its forehead to its nostrils. And the clincher is that those nostrils are almost vertical compared to the harbour seals whose air intakes are at 45 degrees.

Bull grey seal
Bull grey seal

One more pic of today….. a swan with a couple of admirers.


Family Flotilla


An extraordinarily sunny and warm handful of days encouraged family Kirkwood out onto the water in a motley flotilla consisting of every kayak, and piece of kayaking equipment I could find lying about the place. Two Gumotex inflatables (single and double), a Perception Gemini double, and my Cobra expedition. Not quite enough PFDs (lifejackets) to go round, unfortunately.

We were joined by Dave and Sally and Tim’s girlfriend Jess.


Henry spotted the first item of wildlife interest. It was ‘only’ a brown rat, and gave us all the creeps, but an exceptional sighting because I think it is the only one I have ever seen from my kayak in SW England. I have actually see more whales than rats. Good eyeball, Hezzer.


Incredibly the open sea was even more smooth than the water of the estuary, and Dave and Sally were waiting for us on a perfectly selected private beach on which we could take lunch (dodgy sandwiches and half-melted mini eggs).


After troughing we paddled the open coast and Henry spotted the next wildlife nugget, a Mallard duck and her (very) newly hatched brood of twelve or thirteen (!) ducklings. Another exceptional observation as it extremely unusual to see a family of these ducks swimming along the open coast.


eagle-eyed Hezzer
Mallard Ducklings

Tea break at Lantic Bay was followed by a paddle back which was about as relaxed as coastal kayaking can be, thanks to the millpond smooth sea and toasting sunshine.


The following day was equally as flat so I ventured offshore, solo, to see what was about. The sea was fairly quiet and the only cetacean was a single porpoise which I heard puffing and glimpsed surfacing at distance. Another one I heard I failed to see.

Probably my best sighting was this ‘bridled’ Guillemot.

Bridled Guillemot
Bridled Guillemot

A couple of its more conventionally marked friends were nearby, and looking very smart in the Spring sunshine.


The one on the right is in full breeding plumage, the other is still is in the changing room and  sporting a bit of its winter outfit.

Below the surface there were still quite a lot of Barrel Jellyfish about, pulsating mysteriously through the water, which was heavily speckled with plankton.

Barrel jellyfish




Plague of Jellyfish

There are more Barrel jellyfish around the coast of SW England than I have ever seen in fifteen plus years of sea kayaking. A lot more. I have seen more in the last three days than all the other years added together……91 on Tuesday (yes I counted them, how nerdy is that?), 120+ on Wednesday (lost the plot after a hundred) and 40+ today.

This number of any other jellyfish is not unusual, but Barrel Jellyfish are so BIG that this is really quite a phenomenon. Their ‘bell’ can be two foot across and they can weigh in at over 30kgs.

This video clip shows the size quite nicely:


Their appearance seems to have coincided with a plankton bloom (upon which they feast) that has probably been caused by the sunny weather. The nearshore water is full of specks of plankton which you can see clearly in this clip:


I can’t recall ever seeing such a sudden bloom so early in the year….the water is usually very clear in March and April and gets full of plankton in May.

As I paddle along I can see jellyfish beneath the surface up to about ten foot from my kayak, so I only see a tiny fraction of the vast numbers out there. The three locations I have seen them over the last three days are fifty miles apart so there must be millions of these large and mysterious creatures floating about around our coast. Actually it’s a bit unfair to imply that they drift about passively. On the contrary they seem to be very motivated to get somewhere with the relentless pulsating of their ‘bell’, although they maybe don’t know exactly where that somewhere is ( they havn’t got a brain).

Personally I find them absolutely fascinating and a bit mesmerising, especially when they are illuminated by dancing shafts of sunlight.


If all these jellyfish end up on the beaches after an onshore gale it will cause quite a stir. Just one of these washed up on the sand causes heads to turn, so hundreds or thousands could be quite a scenario. At least they don’t sting so are harmless to people. Maybe they’ll swim away somewhere else. I don’t know.

One exciting possibility is that the unprecedented number of Barrel Jellyfish will lure in a Leatherback Turtle or two, because Barrel Jellyfish are the favourite food of the Leatherback. A good reason to keep on paddling and keep on looking.