Ten Minutes…Two Top Predators

I was having a bit of an ‘off’ day when I paddled out of Fowey estuary a week ago. I don’t know why, but my brain just wouldn’t engage and kept drifting off.

Went to bed too late…unlikely. Getting too old…probably. Irritated that I forgot to pack that Raisin and Biscuit Yorkie Duo for mid-morning snack…definitely!

It doesn’t really matter that you are not fully tuned-in for the fifteen-minute leisurely paddle amongst the mass of moored yachts before gaining access to the open sea.

Nothing sudden is going to happen.

A cruise liner had just arrived and was dominating the scene.

Cruise Liner ‘Vasco de Gama’

By the time I arrived off the headland half an hour later I was hoping that my brain fugg might have dispersed. Like mist on a heated rear window in a car of yesteryear it was taking a bit of shifting.

I could feel it in my bones that something dramatic was about to occur so I needed to snappy up…fast.

Too late. An entire shoal of Garfish leapt out of the water a few feet in front of my kayak. Had I been on the ball I would have grabbed my camera bag from behind my seat faster than a striking Cobra and be unfurling the seal in a blurr of whirring fingers, because I knew what was coming next.

The Garfish leapt again and I just sat and gawped.

As expected a monstrous Tuna then exploded from the surface with a roar of water a couple of metres in front of me, sending one fish spiralling in to the air high above it.

A real whopper of a fish.

I continued gawping.

It re-entered in a surprisingly splash-free dive and was gone…and that was the show finished.

This is how it looked and this is what I should have pictured had I be ‘on it’.

Thanks to son Henry for these amazing pics:

Garfish scattering (pic: Henry Kirkwood)
Atlantic Bluefin Tuna leaping (pic: Henry Kirkwood)

Or maybe I would have been too slow anyway. My best scramble time for getting my camera out of its bag and ready for action is 12.68 seconds (approx) and all this happened a bit quicker than that.

Camera in the grey dry bag. Ready for action…or not.

Whatever my photographic failure, the phenomenal burst of violent action just in front of my nose had reconnected the claggy synapses in my brain so I was now thinking more clearly than Melvyn Bragg.

That’s better. This is how I like to be. Completely plugged in to everything that is going on around. If anything twitches a whisker or sneezes it will not go undetected. Maybe it’s called mindfulness. Mindemptyness might be more accurate in my case, because I find it is essential to clear out the clutter first.

Whatever, it’s all very addictive…and enjoyable.

So when I heard the squeal of another of the world’s most finely-honed top predators only a few minutes later, I reacted faster than if I had been tasered.

It was the sneering snicker of a juvenile Peregrine Falcon begging for food, a sound that echoes around many of the remotest cliffs and coves around Devon and Cornwall in mid-summer when the youngsters leave the nest. It is a magical sound and is incredibly far-carrying. On a still day I have heard it clearly while sitting five miles offshore. It’s one of the great sounds of the coastal wilderness.

If your brain is tuned in to the wildlife channel, it sends a shiver of electricity up your spine.

I engaged max stealth mode and sneaked along close to the shore towards the noise, using the rocky islets as cover in the style of John Wayne.

I nearly missed them. Only twenty metres ahead…two peregrines perched on top of a barnacle-encrusted rock. One looking very large, the other surprisingly small and lean.

Luckily I was almost completely hidden from their view by a rock. I whipped my camera out of its bag in what must have been record time because I didn’t want two foul-ups in less than an hour.

Peregrine pair

The falcons were too busy to worry about me. The bird on the right was bigger not just because she was the female but because she was fluffed up and ‘mantling’ over a recent kill. The male, very sensibly, was keeping clear and not involved with the feast.

Peregrine plus breakfast

The juvenile-style snickering was a bit of a puzzle. Typically I don’t hear that noise after the youngsters become self-sufficient by about the end of August.

Also this falcon had the plumage of an adult bird. I wonder if it had just ‘begged’ the meal off the male in the manner of a juvenile before I had arrived upon the scene.

Dunno, but that’s the appeal of paddling around quietly observing all this fantastic wildlife. Gets yer thinking ‘n all.

The male departed and I watched the female relishing her jackdaw victim. That’s what it looked like, anyway. Black and small crow-sized.

I generally keep well clear of Peregrines because they usually have a very definite tolerance limit of human approach and I wonder whether the reason some pairs have deserted their traditional nesting cliffs around the coast of Cornwall is because of increased disturbance by go-anywhere craft such as kayaks and paddleboards. Perhaps combined with many more walkers and their dogs wandering along the coast path on the top of cliff.

Cliffs in Cornwall are generally lower than in Devon so potential for disturbance is greater…and there doesn’t seem to be such a problem in Devon.

Peregrine Falcon

So I rarely have the opportunity to grab photos such as this of the world’s fastest creature.

Unfortunately it WAS then spooked by some fishermen who came clambering over the rocks. Pity, but it didn’t seem too fussed when it relocated to a cliff and continued to munch.

On the way back to Fowey I loitered off the headland again in the hope of another tuna encounter but there was not a sniff of any action.

Moral of today: ‘Expect the unexpected, because unexpected things occur when you are least expecting’. I’m sure Melvyn Bragg would approve.

Looking UP at Giant Tuna

Atlantic Bluefin Tuna, Land’s End

There is not a lot to match the excitement of a close encounter with a monstrous creature of the open ocean from a kayak.

Success is a random event as you never know where they are going to appear. The only certainty is the more time you spend paddling around in the vast expanse of watery nothingness, the more likely you are to succeed.

Failure is highly likely as these creatures are few and far between. For example, on average, I come across a whale once every thousand miles paddled. Dolphins are better at one pod per hundred miles. This is why very few other people, if any, take part in the ludicrous pursuit that I find so addictive.

Paddling along the coast is the preferred option for most kayakers as it provides guaranteed entertainment for the eyeballs.

Land’s End. Kayaking Heaven

Yesterday was a typical sort of day. It was so very nearly a catastrophic failure.

I flogged (by car) all the way down to Sennen Cove through interminable roadworks that resulted in another layer being ground off my incisor teeth.

It was a big effort but the weather was due to turn very autumnal so this was the last day of calm winds.

I didn’t like the look of the open sea when I arrived…it was grey and swirly and disappointingly choppy. Even so, I paddled up the coast for a couple of hours, then a couple of hours back. I kept a mile offshore but very little was going on. Gannets were circling high up as if they were expecting something to happen, but nothing did.

Just as I was getting despondent and contemplating throwing in the towel, a little posse of three Common Dolphins cruised past to rescue my sinking morale.

A slab of Genoa cake improved things further.

The sun peeped through and the sea was transformed from battleship grey to gleaming turquoise, so my spirits lifted and I just kept on paddling down the coast towards Land’s End.

There. A silver flash plus a splash in the far distance. Could be a mile away. Must be a tuna!

Tuna ahoy! What a thumping great fish!

Stiff back, sore legs and assorted other aches went away in an instant as I selected sport mode and shifted up through the gears. (had a lump of genoa stuck in my oesophagus, though)

As I approached the area where the tuna had been a school of small silvery fish skittered across the surface just in front of my kayak, followed by an explosion of water as three giant fish chased after them.

Heart in throat* Wow, they were huge.

*genoa gone, luckily

A gull picked up an injured fish and took it to a nearby rock. Clearly a Garfish which seems to be a Tuna favourite as I have seen them chasing this species before, both in SW England and the Mediterranean.

Unlucky Garfish

As I sat around in the buffeting current in stunned amazement more tuna were splashing around further away, so I tucked in to an eddy and watched.

A significant tidal current was surging through a chute between two underwater rocks and the Tuna were ambushing the fish as they fed in the current interfaces. Lively water always means more fish.

Front row seat for some Tuna action!

And that is where I sat for two hours as the Tuna slashed and leaped. How many were there…50?…100? I think I saw one fish twice, an exceptionally large specimen with a cobalt-blue back. It surfaced right beside my kayak twice.

It was the size of a large Common Dolphin so a good eight foot long, I would think.

That’s a whopper!

My photographic efforts were mixed. There was another explosion of activity as another pod of Garfish were pursued, but by the time my lens was ready the action was over.

Tuna are notoriously difficult to photograph. They are excessively fast and unlike a dolphin they don’t need to come up for breath. Maybe they’ll jump again in the same place, but probably they won’t.

They always produce a lively and interesting image, however. The yellow finlets along the back look more like a row of fangs in this pic.

Bluefin Tuna

This was a memorable experience. Big scenery. Right off the end of Land’s End in restless, swirling water. Big fish, moving at exasperating speed. Loud noise, as they powered after their prey.

Tuna chaos. You can just make out the big eye in this pic…nice

Best of all was the viewing perspective. Sitting at water level I was looking UP at the leaping fish.

Yet another benefit of the kayak.

Giant Bluefin Tuna. Land’s End. (love that blue stripe)

Fowey, Fizzing with Fins

No time to wallow in jet lag. A super-flat sea off Cornwall cannot be ignored even though we only lurched in through the front door from our Orca-spotting trip to Canada late the previous night.

Fowey was my chosen destination…access to the open sea is close if one is feeling a bit jaded and it rarely disappoints when it comes to wildlife.

Last Saturday was no exception.

Five hour trip, fifteen miles paddled, three pods of porpoises, three pods of dolphins, three tuna ‘explosions’.

Common Dolphin, Fowey

It was so calm and quiet that I heard all of these before I saw them…porpoises puffing, dolphins sploshing, tuna ripping the surface apart.

Tuna ripping it up

This is why I love the silence of the kayak, any engine noise would have drowned out the sounds of the sea. And the sound is 50% of the fun.

I paddled five miles directly offshore, had a cup of coffee and then headed back. That is when most of the action occurred.

I thought my ears were malfunctioning when I heard about twenty quiet puffs all very close together. Paddling towards the noise revealed about fifty dolphins in a tight pack. They were cruising about in a very relaxed and peaceful manner.

Their leisureliness was entirely in keeping with the ambience of the day.

It’s usually porpoises that are more chilled and the dolphins more animated.

Today they performed a big-time roll reversal. A pod of porpoises came charging directly towards me. Listen to those Puffing Pigs puff in this video.

It is unusual to see porpoises making much of a splash, but they were clearly late for lunch and were soon feasting on a ball of unseen baitfish nearby. The scraps kept the local gull population happy.

Porpoises feeding at Fowey

I sat around watching the action for quite a while because I felt sure that the mini-feeding frenzy would not go unnoticed by the tuna that I had seen earlier. They are a mega-aware predator with super-tuned senses and would not miss an opportunity like this.

Sure enough a couple exploded from the surface nearby. I’m tempted to say this one looks a bit startled.

Atlantic Bluefin Tuna showing the whites of its eye.

It was just a tiddler, only about six foot long.

All this was the perfect jetlag antidote…no time for moping about having an afternoon nap…it was just too exciting.

With some extremely photogenic scenes…

NCI Polruan on the right.

Giant Tuna from a Kayak. Daft but Fun.

In addition to all the difficulties mentioned in my last blog about tracking down this mighty king of fish with a kayak, I should have mentioned that they generally keep well offshore so it’s got to be a really calm day to even get to a location when you might stand a chance of seeing them.

Giant Bluefin Tuna. Wolf Rock Lighthouse in background

An hour’s paddle out, I usually reckon. Three miles is where it all kicks off, if you’re lucky.

Just to remind you, I was off Sennen Cove, so beyond the far tip of Cornwall and had been enjoying a bit of dolphin and porpoise action.

Not to be outdone by it’s cetacean neighbours a Sunfish leapt clean out of the water in front of me before cruising past just beneath the surface with it’s dorsal fin corkscrewing and flapping about in typical Sunfish manner.

Quite a small one, and very late in the season.

Ocean Sunfish

I had heard a few very violent eruptions of water during my paddle out. I knew from previous experience that these must have been tuna. It’s a very characteristic explosion of noise, far more meaty-sounding than the splash of a dolphin. I had caught a glimpse of some spiky fins in amongst the flying water earlier but it was all a bit quick and uncertain.

I felt convinced that some of these super-predators would gate-crash the hard work of the dolphins when they rounded up a baitball of sprats or mackerel.

That is precisely what happened.

Look at this video carefully….the dolphins are cruising backwards and forwards in their gentle and polite manner, probably picking off a few fish as they go. A tuna then comes crashing in at enormous speed and sends a cloud of baitfish (I think they are sprats) flying in an explosion of water.

To emphasise the point watch this next clip of a dolphin going about as fast as Common Dolphins go, chasing a faster fish which was probably a mackerel.

An impressive turn of speed but still very elegant and controlled and streamlined. Not TOO much water flying about.

Then the tuna turn up and rip the surface to shreds. Kaboom. The power and speed involved is quite staggering. And boy some of them are big, much larger than the dolphins.

When the tuna turn up it’s total carcrash chaos. Spray and fins and fish flying about everywhere. It’s all completely punk. So it definitely gets the thumbs up from me.

Bluefin Tuna erupts.

Interestingly they are not always so violent. It depends on what sort of fish they are hunting. Fast and big fish require maximum explosive effort. Small fish don’t. When I came across a large number of tuna off Mevagissey last year they were feeding in a very restrained manner in amongst the dolphins.

They were either munching small sprats or maybe clearing up the debris of scattered or stunned fish left behind by the dolphins.

Incidentally, look closely and you can see it finishing folding away its retractable dorsal fin into the flush-fitting recess on the top of its back. Slicker than a Tornado fighter jet.

So, looking for tuna from a kayak.

Daft…probably. Fun…definitely. Pulse-racing…certainly.

Giant Bluefin Tuna. That’s a Big Fish

Hunting for Giant Tuna from a Kayak. It’s Really not a Good Idea.

Atlantic Bluefin Tuna erupts. (Plus a very, very lucky mackerel)

Tuna are the local marine mega-beast that makes me say ‘Wow’ most often. They are unbelievably big and even more unbelievably fast.

It’s really great that the tuna species found around SW England, The Atlantic Bluefin Tuna, is the biggest in the world. You might assume that there is something larger cruising the waters of the Pacific, but there isn’t.

The name Giant Bluefin Tuna applies to the very biggest which are over 150kgs. They can actually be a lot more than this but 150kgs, which is considerably more than the average dolphin, is plenty big enough for me to say ‘wow’ and ‘wow’ again.

In fact everything about what is arguably the sea’s most impressive top predator is amazing. Not least its reappearance around Devon and Cornwall when everyone assumed it was gone forever following the unregulated industrial fishing blitz of the 1970s.

Going out looking for Tuna in a kayak is a pretty stupid thing to do. Mainly because it is almost guaranteed to end in failure as their appearance at any one place is completely random. This is generally the same for dolphins and whales but at least dolphins and whales have to come up to breathe. Tuna can leap at the surface once and then be submerged for minutes, hours…or maybe days!

My first encounter was completely unexpected. 17 November 2017. A monstrously-sized fish leapt clear of the water just in front of me when I was a couple of miles offshore at Fowey looking for dolphins. I think ‘wow’ was one of the lesser expletives.

Since that first astonishing encounter I have witnessed a couple of major tuna events involving hundreds of fish. Eddystone in August 2020 and Dodman Point in November 2021.

Bluefin Tuna, not looking too happy with life, Dodman Point, Nov 2021

If observing Tuna from a kayak is borderline bonkers, trying to get a photograph of one from the kayak seat is just about impossible. You can’t have your camera ready because you need both hands (which are permanently wet) to do a bit of paddling.

If you hear that explosion of water as a tuna bursts from the surface, you won’t have your camera primed and you probably won’t see it again. Also in my case it is more often than not behind me so I probably didn’t see it in the first place.

The photo of the fish at Dodman above is the best of over 800 pics I took on that day. Most are of an empty sea, a few contain some flying water and just a handful show a fin or two. So it ain’t easy.

Not to be deterred by previous history of failure, I arrived at Sennen Cove on Tuesday with tuna in my sights. There have been a lot of big fish seen recently so I was keen to join in the fun. I had seen two tuna breach at Fowey a few days before, but absolutely no chance of a pic.

Sennen Cove

I had a quick scan with binoculars from the car park and immediately saw a giant fish, the size of a large dolphin, leap clear of the water. Even better, there were dolphins dotted around all over the place. Gannets diving everywhere.

The surface was flat calm and there was hardly any swell. Rare for this very exposed location. Tidal currents are a concern for kayakers here but today the tides were small. Excellent.

I loaded the kayak up with all the essentials (chocolate digestives back on the menu now it’s a bit cooler and they won’t melt) and was paddling away from the harbour in super-quick time.

Straight out to sea where I had seen the tuna and the dolphins from the carpark. And I saw absolutely nothing for an hour. I couldn’t believe it…everything had scarpered. Although I’m aware that through binoculars you can see an entire seascape in an instant that would take an hour or more to cover in a kayak at three mph.

Mind you the surface was staggeringly smooth so I was still full of expectation.

3 miles out from Sennen Cove. Lands End in distance

At last I heard some distant sploshing and could just see a few fins in the distance. Dolphins…excellent. I paddled over quietly to investigate.

A pod of about 25 Common Dolphins cruised past in their usual polite and aware sort of manner. Shepherding the small calf that you can see towards the end of this clip.

That stick on the horizon is Wolf Rock Lighthouse.

I paddled towards Longships lighthouse and encountered another pod:

Common Dolphins and Longships

Another sedate group, also with calves ‘at foot’ passed by providing a stunning vista down-sun to the north. The Brisons (the island) and Cape Cornwall.

Lovely to watch the adults, which were being all sensible…

Adult Common Dolphin

Plus tiny calves, which were throwing themselves around like spring lambs…

Common Dolphin junior

All very pleasant and quiet and relaxed….

But then things suddenly hotted up. Just as a couple of dolphins came over to say hello, they must have detected a nearby shoal and engaged top gear with quite a bit of wheelspin as they passed beneath my kayak. Resulting in me doing a considerable wobble and being very restrained and only saying ‘woops’ as my £500 (unwaterproof) camera nearly took a dunking.

You will see the front of my kayak being significantly swirled around in this clip. Could’ve got my choccy digestives wet. Disaster!

The surge of cetacean action didn’t stop there. A couple of outlying dolphins came piling in to join in the feeding fun, and I was DIRECTLY in their way.

Apologies for any inconvenience caused.

Over a hundred Common Dolphins in total. Plus at least twenty porpoises. The latter appeared from nowhere churning up the water in a very dolphinesque, and very unporpoise-like style. There was no mistaking their characteristic puffs and those little triangular fins, however:

Harbour Porpoise

An absolutely fantastic day, but what about the tuna, which I knew were around because I had seen them from the carpark?

I had hoped that when the dolphins herded the shoals of baitfish into a ball, the tuna might not be able to resist joining in with the feast. Tuna have got he most advanced bodywork design of any fish. They even have flush-fitting holders to fold their fins into to make them go even faster. So I guess their fish-sensing onboard computer is just as formula one as their exterior.

You will have to wait till my next blog to find out, because this one’s gone on longer than I had planned.

But here’s a tantalising taster…

Loads of Dolphins and Tuna in Mevagissey Bay

Mevagissey

Mevagissey Bay is my latest favourite place. Although technically I’m talking about the southern fringe of the bay heading down to Dodman Point. This is where the slack current further into the bay starts to get moving. Moving water means more fish.

It has been absolutely bursting with marine life over the last week. There was a calm day either side of Storm Arwen which allowed a bit more offshore exploration, following the big Tuna sightings I reported in my last blog.

On the first day I saw a moderately large ‘work-up’ (a circling and diving flock) of Gannets ahead as I passed the Gwineas (aka Gwinges) cardinal buoy. I could see large creatures splashing about beneath the flock from far off, but before I got anywhere close I was ‘mugged’ by a pod of about thirty Common Dolphins. It seemed to consist entirely of juveniles which, needless to say, could not resist a major and prolonged interaction with me and my little craft.

I could see a few adults, with larger fins, standing off supervising the performance of the youngsters from afar. No doubt tut-tutting.

That’s Gorran Haven straight ahead, by the way.

A really great start to a grey day at the end of November. Not really what I was expecting.

And the action didn’t stop there. Quite the opposite in fact. For the next four hours not a second went past when I couldn’t hear a splash of a dolphin or a Tuna breaching. OK it was very still so I could hear the violent raking swoosh of a tuna from half-a-mile away, but it was still remarkable.

Most of the Tuna, however were feeding in a very restrained manner more like a dolphin. In fact in this video you have to look twice to see which is Tuna and which is dolphin. (hint: the first to appear is a dolphin, the rest are modest-sized Tuna).

There was a supporting audio cast of mewing gulls (including Kittiwakes), cackling auks (I passed many Razorbills and Guillemots sitting on the surface), and the squeak of Gannet’s wings as they swept over my head. Occasionally the Gannets would cackle with excitement the moment they closed their wings to dive onto a fish.

Gannets

For about three miles of paddling down to level with the tip of Dodman Point there were Dolphins and Tuna scattered about all over the place, all feeding in a very relaxed manner. About a hundred of each, I estimated. Plus a single Porpoise, recognisable by its characteristic puff of breath and small triangular fin.

On the way back in I ran into another more compact pod of dolphins, which like the first immediately took up the roll of escorts. You will see one has a white tip to its fin, plus a white patch on its side.

Back along the shore were some nuggets of bird life. The local Oystercatchers…

Oystercatcher

and a couple of my favourite little coastal birds just outside the harbour at Mevagissey. Purple Sandpipers, winter visitors from the far north. They were fast asleep.

Purple Sandpiper

Day two, when the wind had dropped after the storm, followed a similar theme although numbers were less. A mere twenty-five dolphins, six Tuna, one Porpoise.

Here’s another headcam video, because if you’re on the same wavelength as me, you can’t have too many dolphins.

Looking Back on 2020

Despite a few lockdowns and time off with a health issue, 2020 has been my best year yet for cetaceans in terms of numbers.

In Cornwall and Devon: 936 in total, compared to 836 in 2019, and 764 in 2018.

This 936 consisted of 688 Common Dolphins which I saw on 26 days, 239 Harbour porpoises which I saw on 39 days, and nine Minke Whales on six days.

I didn’t see any Bottlenose Dolphins, Risso’s Dolphins or Humpbacks in SW England, but if you are a fan of any of these don’t log off because I have some new pics and vids of these charismatic creatures at the end of this blog, taken from the kayak seat of course, but overseas.

You can’t read too much into these statistics, because on one day in early August I saw a superpod of over one hundred dolphins, so I only need to come across a couple of them a year, and dolphin numbers would look very healthy. However it did seem to be a good year for Common Dolphins, probably because the very sunny and settled Spring favoured the survival of schools of shoaling fish. I noticed this little boom of fish all around the coast in mid-June.

Fish Fry

I had some really memorable eye to eye encounters with some inquisitive dolphins, including some small calves, and even managed to see the same dolphin in two separate locations, twenty-five miles apart. This might not surprise you too much, but if you have ever tried to photograph a common dolphin from a kayak, and then sift through five hundred images from each of the two occasions, and then some little bell rings in the back of your head that you might have seen that dolphin before (when they all look more or less the same), it’s no mean feat.

eyeball to eyeball with Common Dolphin
Common Dolphin and calf

My Harbour Porpoise records are maybe a little bit more worrying. 239 individuals on 39 days in 2020, compared to 257 on 34 days in 2019, and 327 on 44 days in 2018. This apparent decline is probably not significant, but the coastal waters during August, when their numbers peak, was a cacophonous din of motor boats and jetskis. More than usual due to staycations. If I was a shy and unobtrusive little creature like a porpoise I might just clear off somewhere else. If boat engines are loud above the water, they’re deafening below.

The Minke Whale sightings were, as usual, excitement off the scale for me in my little craft, far far out to sea, all by myself. I know I go on about it a lot, but the blow of a whale is just the best sound in the animal world. And a kayak is the best platform to experience them, because it so silent you can hear the whales blowing when they are still too far away to see.

The Minke action was focused around the Eddystone reef off Plymouth, with two or three there on 22 July, another on 29 July, and three or four on 11 Aug.

I also saw single Minke Whales at Penzance and Looe but my best view was in completely glassy conditions five miles off Fowey on 10 September. This whale looked quite big, but the shape of the fin and the fact that it had no visible blow, makes me almost certain it is a Minke.

Minke Whale Fowey

That brings my whale total, since I started going to look for them in earnest in 2014, to twenty one. Sixteen Minkes, three Humpbacks, one possible Sei. I look forward to adding Pilot, Fin…..and hopefully Orca to the list soon!

My most extraordinary, and unexpected sighting last year was the enormous number of Giant Bluefin Tuna that were shredding the sea off Plymouth. They were ripping up patches the size of a tennis court as far as the eye could see. The first feeding frenzy kicked off so quickly and with such an explosive roar, I cricked my neck when I turned round to see what was going on. Just for a second I thought it was a surfacing submarine.

I saw about a hundred fish break the surface, but there must have been many, many more below. Amazing. It was definitely a good year for tuna, and by far my best ever. I saw them on thirteen occasions from late July to early December, all along the south coast from Land’s End to Torbay. Mostly over a mile offshore.

Bluefin Tuna

Seals are always a welcome sight, and are very inquisitive and interactive when they are in the water. Even though they seem to be increasingly tolerant of human activity, especially the ones that inhabit the sheltered water with more recreational craft further east, I steer well clear of seals hauled out on land. It’s unfair to disturb them when they are resting. Their nervousness out of the water matches their confidence when they are in it.

So I was very careful to stay well out to sea and use my camera on maximum zoom when I came across a couple of white fluffy seal pups on a shingly beach. It was great to see Mum patting and smoothing her little baby with her huge flipper with incredibly dexterity and gentleness.

Up at head of the creeks near the high tide mark I had my four best ever Otter sightings in Devon and Cornwall all in a ten day period in late November. Two, one of a dog otter that stared so hard at me that it ended up on tiptoe, and the other of a mother and chirping cub, were on the same day an hour apart.

Chirping Otter Pup

I saw the same cub, still calling his mum, but even louder this time, a few days later, And just when I thought that I wouldn’t ever get a better view of an otter, I came across a family of three on the River Torridge.

I could hear a pup chirping over the loud roar of a weir. In fact it was amazing that the sound of the rushing water drowned out all other sounds except the chirp of the otter. No doubt that is why the call is set at that pitch.

Torridge otter family

Anyway, I had plenty of advanced warning and tucked in close to the bank to watch. A great, prolonged performance by an exuberant couple of cubs, plus mum trying to keep their over excitement in check. All on the Torridge, legendary home of otters.

Best birds of the year were undoubtedly the pair of Roseate Terns that were resting on a headland near Mevagissey, trying to summon up the enthusiasm for the long migration to west Africa. Absolute stunners, they were still in full breeding plumage, and I think you can even see the pink flush on the Persil white of their tum!

Roseate Tern

I wouldn’t have known they were Roseates unless they were perched….in flight they are very similar to Common and Arctic terns, to an amateur birder like me anyway.

It’s important not to forget the attraction of the local birds. Some are more often heard than seen. The skulking but beautiful Water Rail spends much of its time wailing like a tortured cat from a patch of reeds, only occasionally creeping out into the open beside the canal.

Water Rail

It was lovely to see this Snipe before it saw me first and scarpered, which is what usually happens 99.9% of the time. What a beak is that!

Snipe

Finally in the bird department, I have learnt a new call this year. The ‘pik’ warning cry of an adult Oystercatcher to tell its offspring to go and hide. As a result, I have found a lot more Oystercatcher families around the coast than were previously known. Good stuff.

Oystercatcher family

To finish off, lets go back to the cetaceans. I will never forget the multitude of Humpbacks we saw in the Antarctic at the end of January. Loads from our mothership, the Greg Mortimer, and a dozen from the kayaks. They are just bursting with personality and gentle curiosity. The juvenile which repeatedly swam under our kayak could have flattened Becky and I with a twitch of its flukes or flippers, but was very careful not even to cause the slightest swirl to disturb our kayak.

Humpie and Greg Mortimer expedition ship

A week in Spain during the lockdown ‘gap’ in late summer allowed me to venture out into the Med, within sight of Gibraltar. The Mediterranean doesn’t have a great reputation with regard to pollution and overfishing, so I was very pleased to come across some big pods of Common Dolphins, which appeared nearly all to be juveniles, a couple of Bottlenose dolphins close to the shore, and a pair of really big Rissos dolphins well offshore. The latter were blowing as loud as whales, and one had a gnarled-looking dorsal fin with a white tip, looking like a snow-capped mountain.

I was going to include only one of the dolphin videos, but because its still lockdown so you havn’t got any pressing need to be anywhere else, here’s the whole lot for you to enjoy. Just listen to those splashes, puffs and blows! The magic of watching from the kayak.

Common Dolphins
Bottlenose Dolphins
Risso’s Dolphins
Common Dolphins
Common Dolphins
Common Dolphins
Bottlenose Dolphins
Risso’s Dolphins

2021 has already got a bit of catching up to do. I managed to see six porpoises at the mouth of Plymouth sound on 2nd Jan, and that’s it so far. I’m looking forward to being allowed out again soon. I don’t suppose the animals mind.

First Dolphins for Blinking Ages

Queen Mary 2, Torbay

I havn’t had a good encounter with cetaceans for over two months, mainly because sea conditions have not been conducive to paddling offshore. So I’ve been getting a bit twitchy. Especially as my efforts to see the Humpback whales near Land’s End recently were a spectacular failure.

I flogged fifteen miles from Penzance to Tater Du lighthouse and back, and the whales were a few miles further down the coast. And I missed a pod of Bottlenose dolphins which were close to shore……typical! Although as a consolation I did see ten porpoises and a couple of breaching tuna.

Winter paddling is harder work than in the summer. You are wrapped up in thermals and a drysuit which restrict arm movements, and the cold doesn’t enhance muscle function. Not to mention the lack of feelgood factor with the warmth of the sun on the back of your neck. The end result is that the mileage at the end of the day is a bit lower.

Today was forecast to be the last day of lightish winds for a while, so I opted for Torbay. There is always plenty going on to keep a kayaker amused. Brixham is constantly busy.

Brixham Trawler

And the seals around the harbour are always entertaining:

Brixham Seal

I paddled out to Berry Head, expecting a porpoise or two in the more swirly water off the end of the point. However instead I saw a couple of dolphins hurling themselves about in the distance. I ratcheted up the speed and paddled towards them, but after half an-hour I hadn’t really closed the gap. This is part of the frustration/fun of watching dolphins from a kayak. Pods typically cruise along at about 4mph. So no problem if you are in a boat with an engine, but when you are paddling a kayak which only goes at 4mph when you really push it, and 5 (or possibly 6 in smooth conditions) if you give it everything you’ve got, the best view you might get is a load of fins disappearing off into the distance.

(very) distant dolphin

I was a couple of miles off the headland and beginning to lose heart, but fortunately the dolphins suddenly changed direction and charged towards me, apparently to say hello. A couple of youngsters surged about in my insignificant bow wave, and continued to splosh about, apparently out of curiosity, as I did a bit of filming.

juvenile dolphins

Excellent. Great to see them again. Interestingly, two of the adults were launching their noses well out of the water during each breath, and falling back with a splash. I have previously thought this was some kind of abnormal surfacing action, possibly as the result of an injury, but having seen it quite often (including in Spain), I think it is the adults taking a look around above the surface. It is very possible that this is complete rubbish, and it is just the way they sometimes swim. See what you think…..

This pod of about eight then moved on, but I bumped into another little group of five, which appeared to be all adolescents, as I headed back towards Berry Head. Being young and inquisitive, they spent a long time sloshing about around my kayak.

It was a long haul back to the headland, against the tide and wind, which was fortunately still quite light. But it was spiced up with four interesting nuggets of wildlife, three very good, and one very bad.

Here’s the good:

1, A Great Northern Diver flying past:

Great Northern Diver

2. A couple of Porpoises:

Harbour Porpoise

3. A couple of huge silvery fish leaping, accompanied by a mighty splash…..Giant Bluefin Tuna!! Wow! Not a hope of a photo. Far too quick.

Here’s the bad:

A freshly dead Common Dolphin.

dead dolphin

But overall a very enjoyable day:

The Last Glow of Summer

It’s been a fantastic year for watching marine wildlife from the kayak seat. Lots of flat calm days, and a huge variety of fins, feathers, splashes and sploshes to enjoy.

As the activity in the sea winds down for winter, I don’t expect to see anything like this again for a while. Surely this is the biggest SWOOOSH of the year! That has got to be a tuna attacking the shoal of sprats…..it’s a pity it didn’t break the surface and jump into my kayak.

And looking at the weather forecast I won’t be seeing scenes like this for a week or two…..dolphins slicing through glassy waters….

Common Dolphin

Or a creche of porpoises on a sea of velvet….

Harbour Porpoises

Over the last week or so the Common Dolphins which have provided so much entertainment for so many people who have been out to see them in a variety of boats, seem to have thinned out and more or less disappeared. (or maybe I’ve just been looking in the wrong place!)

So Hezzer and I were lucky to find a very amenable and inquisitive pod when out on ‘Spot-on!’, skippered by Ross Parham, while filming for ‘Devon and Cornwall’.

Dolphin Spotting

The biggest problem was not finding the dolphins, it was getting into (and out of) the kayaks from the boat in a lumpy sea. And looking in the right direction when the dolphins surfaced!

I thought it was a bit of a tall order to find a seal and dolphins to film in just a few hours, but the wildlife was in an exceptionally cooperative mood, and a seal appeared exactly where we had hoped.

Grey Seal

My last major (twenty plus miles) offshore paddle was from Portmellon, near Mevagissey.

A couple of Sandwich Terns were resting at Chapel Point. Adult in winter plumage above, juvenile dotted with dark chevrons below. The youngster calls to its parent every few seconds, the whole time. Whether flying or resting, all the way down to their wintering area off West Africa. You would think it would drive mum, or dad, bonkers.

Sandwich Terns

But of course it doesn’t. Wildlife is bigger than the very human emotion of getting irritated.

From an ornithological enthusiast point of view, it is great to see a ground nesting bird (terns nest on beaches) having a successful breeding season.

They are on migration heading west. They don’t nest in Cornwall or Devon.

juvenile Sandwich Tern

Another migrant, a Dunlin, was resting nearby. A rather anonymous bird when amongst thousands of chums on a wind-blasted estuarine mud-flat (their usual choice of habitat), but rather charming sitting here all alone on a barnacle encrusted rock.

Dunlin

Dodman Point was my destination, and I was relieved that the wind dropped just as I paddled out into the swirling water beyond. It’s a potentially hairy place.

Dodman Point

But the moving water off the point attracts the wildlife. Every so often I heard an explosion of splashes as Tuna burst out of the surface. Disappointingly none of the dozen or so feeding frenzies that I saw were very close. But some of the tuna were really huge…..bigger than dolphins.

distant Bluefin Tuna

At one stage a pod of about ten porpoises got really fired up and surged about with an almost tuna-like splash. This is unusual for porpoises which are quite sedate and rarely cause a ripple…they must have been homing in on a shoal.

Porpoise in a hurry

Just like dolphins, juvenile porpoises stick like glue to the side of their mothers. The maternal bond is clearly strong because this one is nearly as big as mum. It really doesn’t want to leave home. They are so close together that it looks more like one porpoise with two fins.

Mother and ‘calf’ porpoise

I paddled as far as Dodman C buoy, three-and-a-half miles off the headland. Hoping for a dolphin or a whale, but I saw nothing but more splashing tuna.

Dodman C buoy

The unexpected comings and goings of the megafauna off the coast enhances its appeal. It’s difficult to explain why one day will be full of splashes and action and loads of circling Gannets, and the next will be spookily quiet. One day loads of dolphins, the next none. But that’s all part of the fun.

With a weather chart like this, I won’t be heading anywhere offshore again for a while.

It’ll be back to the coast for a bit of seal watching…….

Mevagissey seal trio

THERE SHE BLOWS!!! Minke Whale (and Tuna and Dolphins and Porpoises) off Fowey

As usual I was on the water too early (dawn), because as usual I was overexcited about what the day might promise. Sunshine and light winds all day were forecast, but there was that sneaky little offshore breeze for the first couple of hours which made me hesitate to paddle too far offshore. However after onboard breakfast (muesli/Country crisp) the wind seemed to be easing so I continued out.

Nothing for an hour, then I headed over to see what was attracting the attention of half a dozen circling Gannets. Some big jumping shapes beneath…..TUNA!

Lots of splashing…..the fish which caused this blast of water in this pic below never showed above the surface…not even a fin!

Tuna Bomb in front of Dodman Point

I just sat and watched and over twenty minutes or so must have seen thirty or forty big splashes, and half that number of fish.

Bluefin Tuna
Tuna melee
Bluefin Tuna

If you are ever tempted to try to photograph Tuna, my advice would be to do something else. They are so unbelievably fast, and the camera is always pointing in the wrong direction. From a kayak it’s even more challenging, because the camera is moving around all over the place as well.

Here’s my effort to catch a bit of crazy tuna action…..

When the splashing stopped and the Gannets drifted away I continued directly offshore. I was hopeful of more finned creatures because there were generally a lot of seabirds milling about…not just roving Gannets but also Manx, and a couple of Balearic Shearwaters, and Guillemots on the water.

I caught a glimpse of a fin glittering in the sun directly ahead…..and then a load more. A pod of about thirty Common Dolphins. Doing what dolphins do best: speeding over to check me out, sploshing about the place, youngsters cavorting, then suddenly all rushing off somewhere.

I spent half an hour in their company as they were cruising in essentially the same direction as me, and during that time the sea smoothed off completely. Perfect, I was four miles offshore, and carried on out.

Common Dolphins

The next hour was quite quiet, apart from single splashes from lone tuna, and the occasional big fish breaking the surface. One was exceptionally large, so definitely qualified for the tag ‘Giant’ Bluefin Tuna.

I stopped for coffee break at seven miles out from the mouth of Fowey estuary, and spent a long time listening. There was a whole lot of puffing going on. A pod of approximately eight porpoise were busy criss-crossing around, and nearby a mother porpoise with a very small calf. You can just see its tiny fin on the left here:

Porpoise and tiny calf

Did I hear a more pronounced, and prolonged blow, further out? Not sure…it could have been my PFD (lifejacket) scuffing, or a tuna raking the surface far away.

Even so, I spent a long time listening. It was so completely calm I could hear absolutely everything. Including a motorbike in Fowey, about eight miles away.

I really wanted to see a whale to make a ‘full house’ of fins for the day, but failed to hear anything more resembling a blow so started to paddle slowly back in. And saw a long, slow moving back, far away in the direction of St, Austell. Superb…a Minke Whale!

Minke Whale in front of Clay Country
Minke Whale (Charlestown behind)

My kayak leapt out of the starting blocks as I engaged max power to get a closer view.

Conditions couldn’t have been much more perfect for watching a whale. It’s not very often this calm this far offshore.

I glanced at my GPS and it told me I was precisely 5.00 miles from the mouth of the Fowey estuary. A coincidence, because I always tell people that if you want to see a whale you have to paddle five miles out!

Anyway, I spent the next hour, more or less in the same place, watching the whale surfacing fairly close by. Two or three blows at an interval of about thirty seconds, then submerged for three or four minutes before reappearing.

Minke off Fowey

It’s behaviour was actually like a giant porpoise. Surfacing with barely a ripple, and frequently changing the direction of travel between blows.

I got to within about thirty metres of it as I watched it blow thirty to forty times. I was close enough to hear the short intake of breath after the prolonged exhalation.

Fowey Minke Whale

An excellent prolonged encounter. Just me and the whale and not a lot else for miles around…apart from some porpoises puffing some distance away.

With no seabirds to mark its location (as is frequently the case with dolphins and porpoises), this really was like finding a needle in a haystack. OK it’s a thirty foot-long needle, but haystacks don’t get much bigger than the open ocean!

Enjoy these videos……

This is my favourite, with the whale sliding past the nose of my kayak. That’s Polperro in the distance on the right.

Minke Whale off Fowey

I thought it was a single whale, because it always surfaced just about when I thought it would, and I never heard two blows closer together than about twenty seconds. But take a look at these photos…..the fin shapes look quite different, but maybe its the angle at which the whale was moving which makes them look dissimilar.

Mmmmmm….not sure.

Anyway, what a fantastic encounter with a magnificent creature. My ultimate target animal for my offshore kayak trips, and my ninth (possibly tenth!) of the season.

This photograph is not so flattering. So even whales have a ‘good’ side.

Minke Diving

Fowey was looking good, as always, as I paddled the final mile back up the river to the slipway. A great way to end a top day of wildlife watching.

Fowey

20 miles, eight hours, 1 Minke, 30 Common Dolphins, 20+ Bluefin Tuna, 12 Harbour Porpoise.

Minke Whale off Fowey