Ten Minutes…Two Top Predators

I was having a bit of an ‘off’ day when I paddled out of Fowey estuary a week ago. I don’t know why, but my brain just wouldn’t engage and kept drifting off.

Went to bed too late…unlikely. Getting too old…probably. Irritated that I forgot to pack that Raisin and Biscuit Yorkie Duo for mid-morning snack…definitely!

It doesn’t really matter that you are not fully tuned-in for the fifteen-minute leisurely paddle amongst the mass of moored yachts before gaining access to the open sea.

Nothing sudden is going to happen.

A cruise liner had just arrived and was dominating the scene.

Cruise Liner ‘Vasco de Gama’

By the time I arrived off the headland half an hour later I was hoping that my brain fugg might have dispersed. Like mist on a heated rear window in a car of yesteryear it was taking a bit of shifting.

I could feel it in my bones that something dramatic was about to occur so I needed to snappy up…fast.

Too late. An entire shoal of Garfish leapt out of the water a few feet in front of my kayak. Had I been on the ball I would have grabbed my camera bag from behind my seat faster than a striking Cobra and be unfurling the seal in a blurr of whirring fingers, because I knew what was coming next.

The Garfish leapt again and I just sat and gawped.

As expected a monstrous Tuna then exploded from the surface with a roar of water a couple of metres in front of me, sending one fish spiralling in to the air high above it.

A real whopper of a fish.

I continued gawping.

It re-entered in a surprisingly splash-free dive and was gone…and that was the show finished.

This is how it looked and this is what I should have pictured had I be ‘on it’.

Thanks to son Henry for these amazing pics:

Garfish scattering (pic: Henry Kirkwood)
Atlantic Bluefin Tuna leaping (pic: Henry Kirkwood)

Or maybe I would have been too slow anyway. My best scramble time for getting my camera out of its bag and ready for action is 12.68 seconds (approx) and all this happened a bit quicker than that.

Camera in the grey dry bag. Ready for action…or not.

Whatever my photographic failure, the phenomenal burst of violent action just in front of my nose had reconnected the claggy synapses in my brain so I was now thinking more clearly than Melvyn Bragg.

That’s better. This is how I like to be. Completely plugged in to everything that is going on around. If anything twitches a whisker or sneezes it will not go undetected. Maybe it’s called mindfulness. Mindemptyness might be more accurate in my case, because I find it is essential to clear out the clutter first.

Whatever, it’s all very addictive…and enjoyable.

So when I heard the squeal of another of the world’s most finely-honed top predators only a few minutes later, I reacted faster than if I had been tasered.

It was the sneering snicker of a juvenile Peregrine Falcon begging for food, a sound that echoes around many of the remotest cliffs and coves around Devon and Cornwall in mid-summer when the youngsters leave the nest. It is a magical sound and is incredibly far-carrying. On a still day I have heard it clearly while sitting five miles offshore. It’s one of the great sounds of the coastal wilderness.

If your brain is tuned in to the wildlife channel, it sends a shiver of electricity up your spine.

I engaged max stealth mode and sneaked along close to the shore towards the noise, using the rocky islets as cover in the style of John Wayne.

I nearly missed them. Only twenty metres ahead…two peregrines perched on top of a barnacle-encrusted rock. One looking very large, the other surprisingly small and lean.

Luckily I was almost completely hidden from their view by a rock. I whipped my camera out of its bag in what must have been record time because I didn’t want two foul-ups in less than an hour.

Peregrine pair

The falcons were too busy to worry about me. The bird on the right was bigger not just because she was the female but because she was fluffed up and ‘mantling’ over a recent kill. The male, very sensibly, was keeping clear and not involved with the feast.

Peregrine plus breakfast

The juvenile-style snickering was a bit of a puzzle. Typically I don’t hear that noise after the youngsters become self-sufficient by about the end of August.

Also this falcon had the plumage of an adult bird. I wonder if it had just ‘begged’ the meal off the male in the manner of a juvenile before I had arrived upon the scene.

Dunno, but that’s the appeal of paddling around quietly observing all this fantastic wildlife. Gets yer thinking ‘n all.

The male departed and I watched the female relishing her jackdaw victim. That’s what it looked like, anyway. Black and small crow-sized.

I generally keep well clear of Peregrines because they usually have a very definite tolerance limit of human approach and I wonder whether the reason some pairs have deserted their traditional nesting cliffs around the coast of Cornwall is because of increased disturbance by go-anywhere craft such as kayaks and paddleboards. Perhaps combined with many more walkers and their dogs wandering along the coast path on the top of cliff.

Cliffs in Cornwall are generally lower than in Devon so potential for disturbance is greater…and there doesn’t seem to be such a problem in Devon.

Peregrine Falcon

So I rarely have the opportunity to grab photos such as this of the world’s fastest creature.

Unfortunately it WAS then spooked by some fishermen who came clambering over the rocks. Pity, but it didn’t seem too fussed when it relocated to a cliff and continued to munch.

On the way back to Fowey I loitered off the headland again in the hope of another tuna encounter but there was not a sniff of any action.

Moral of today: ‘Expect the unexpected, because unexpected things occur when you are least expecting’. I’m sure Melvyn Bragg would approve.

The Blow of the Whale

Paddling a kayak across the open ocean up to ten miles from dry land is not everybody’s idea of a fun day out. It’s maybe not a surprise I have yet to come across another paddler more than a mile from shore.

Also, being stopped and questioned by the Border Authority in a customs cutter would suggest it is not a normal activity i.e. an activity done by one who is normal.

It is certainly worth the considerable effort, however, if there is the remotest chance of hearing the greatest natural sound on the face of the planet, the monumental blast of air of a whale.

Finding a whale in Devon and Cornwall is like looking for a flea on a woolly mammoth, but if you don’t get out there and look, you certainly won’t see one.

For all it’s huge disadvantages (no engine, very slow, very small, no fridge stocked with beers) a kayak has one monumental advantage over every other craft…you can hear absolutely everything/anything. It is completely silent so you can hear a whale blowing from a mile away on a still day, probably further.

As cetacean (whale and dolphin) season is about to kick off in SW England, I have been putting in the hours and churning out the miles during the calm weather of the last week. I only venture offshore if the sea is calm with no whitecaps. Any sort of breaking wave, even a small one, means the noise of a puffing porpoise, a splashing dolphin or a breathing whale is drowned out. Also fins are very much more difficult to see when there is a chop.

My first ‘big’ paddle was a bit of a disappointment in terms of wildlife. Tuesday was my first trip to the Eddystone rocks for the year, nearly nine hours in the seat without getting out.

Eddystone

The sea was completely smooth so I could have heard a pin drop a mile away, but five porpoises and a single distant jumping dolphin was my meagre wildlife ‘haul’ for the day.

Porpoise and Rame Head

Fortunately my day trip to the far west of Cornwall on Friday was very much more productive and a satisfactory culmination of a lot of huff and puff.

A window of light winds was forecast for the middle of the day and I wanted to be three miles offshore (an hour’s paddling) in my favourite cetacean hotspot for when the wind dropped. Looking out from the shore with binoculars before I set got my pulse racing….a feeding frenzy of plunging Gannets and the glint of dolphin fins beneath.

Needless to say (because this happens all the time), the dolphins had all disappeared and didn’t see a single fin on the paddle out. Why don’t I learn? Looking through binoculars on dry land and then trying to find them in a kayak is not good for the blood pressure. The distances involved are very deceptive, and the only optical equipment available to a kayaker is what lies either side of their nose.

Anyway I had managed to get one thing right. The wind dropped out completely at exactly the moment I arrived at my ground zero. Perfect. I could hear the seals bawling on the island five miles away.

I was still feeling smug when I heard two thrilling noises simultaneously. The short puff of a porpoise directly behind me and the prolonged blast of a whale directly in front. I just caught a glimpse of the tip of the whale’s fin disappearing below the smooth surface far ahead.

I knew I had a bit of time before the whale came up again so swung round to look at the porpoise. It turned out to be a mother and a calf, and the mother looked very strange with a lot of white on her. It took a while to get a half-decent pic which shows she is partly leucistic (lacking in dark pigment).

Leucistic Porpoise (you can see its ‘piggy’ eye)
Leucistic Porpoise

Lovely to see the little calf stuck to her side.

Mother and calf Porpoise

I could see loose baitballs of sandeels below my kayak which the porpoises were probably hunting, causing a stippling on the surface like light rainfall. I suspect the whale was after them as well.

There are vast numbers of sandeels along the coast at the mo:

Sandeels

Anyway, the whale took an age to resurface and by the time it did it had gone out of sight.

So I paddled slowly in the same direction, and listened hard. The next two sequences of blows were far away, and then it started to head back. It surfaced a hundred metres ahead so I was prepared with camera poised for the next blow…but it didn’t do another..grrr.

For the next hour it zig-zagged backwards and forwards at quite long range and was generally very elusive. I was beginning to wonder if it was deliberately avoiding me.

Elusive Minke

Wrong. All had been completely silent for a few minutes when there was a sudden swirl right beside the nose of my kayak followed by a mighty blast and the roll of the full-sized adult Minke Whale, at least thirty foot long, passing just a few feet away. My kayak wobbled with the swirl of the tail flukes and my pulse rate spiked alarmingly.

Time for a Jammy Dodger.

As I munched the whale briefly checked me out. It surfaced relatively close by and then slowed right down before appearing again.

Fairly close Minke, and it looks like a whopper!

You can see in the video below that it wasn’t as far ahead as I had anticipated ( so had stalled, to give me a sonar check perhaps).

Minke Whale, Penzance

I stayed on for a while longer and did I hear another blow far behind me…and maybe another further to the east? Not sure at the time, but read on and the answer is probably yes!

The wind was forecast to pick up in the early afternoon so after nearly three hours watching the whale, and hearing dozens of those fantastic blasts. I angled inshore for a lazy lunch on one of the best beaches in Cornwall.

Lunch beach perfection

I don’t like being offshore when it is choppy, especially in a very exposed location such as this with a stiff tidal current made even stiffer by the high spring tides. That’s why I headed in.

I paddled back to the car park close to the coast. Irritatingly, and not obeying the forecast, the wind dropped away again mid afternoon so the offshore water was completely and utterly smooth. I was very tempted to head back out but was hesitant after 21 miles and nearly eight hours of paddling. I could see the local wildlife-watching boats stationary a mile or two offshore, as if watching something intently.

After loading my kayak back on the roof I took one last snoop at the sea through my binoculars and saw the back of a whale roll at the surface.

I learnt later that six Minkes had turned up! What???!!!

Should’ve gone back out, clearly.

There was a good background cast today, not least the half dozen porpoises.

A couple of juvenile Peregrines were squealing on the cliff, sitting in the shade of a rock. Peregrines hate lack of wind and bright sunshine.

Juvenile Peregrines

Also a nice spread of post-breeding dispersing/migrating birds: a Kingfisher along the open coast, a pair of Sandwich Terns passing, a little flock of Black-tailed Godwits three miles offshore that yelped as they flew past, and best of all my first Great Skua (Bonxie) of the season which flew over to check me out.

Bonxie

So this was my second whale sighting from my kayak of the year and very much better than my first, which I never heard blow.

It’s a thumbs up AND a smiley face (that’s not a grimace) from me.

The Puffins of Boscastle

Short Island, Boscastle

Boscastle is not often kayak-friendly. Any swell is reflected back out to sea by the vertical cliffs and if you throw in a bit of wind chop and tidal swirl, the ride is more akin to the Calgary stampede.

But Thursday was one of those rare days when the surface was as flat as a lake.

Puffins were top of the agenda for myself, Suzanne and Paul. Legend states that there are a handful of pairs nesting on the islands and over the last fifteen years I have had fleeting glimpses of one or two birds on the water, or zipping passed as my kayak has been bounced around.

I didn’t see them at all last year.

The islands were raucous with the chatter of hundreds of Guillemots and Razorbills which thronged the cliff ledges and sat about in large groups on the sea. A really fantastic spectacle in what is arguably the most scenic and dramatic coastal location in the whole of Cornwall.

Guillemots

Take a look at these birds up close and they really are staggeringly exquisite, especially the Razorbills….

Guillemots
Razorbills

Time for a coffee…

Second breakfast?

Although the handful of Puffins were vastly outnumbered by their fellow auk cousins (Guillemots and Razorbills), they were easy to spot from afar with their white faces.

World-class seabirds in a world-class location.

Enjoy this Cornish mindful moment:

Boscastle Puffins

So there they were, the gems of the sea, three of them. A pair and a singleton. We sat around watching them for half-an-hour. It was a bit of a struggling to drag ourselves away from this stupendous location in such perfect conditions. Wall-to-wall blue sky as well!

Shy Puffin
Boscastle Puffin
Boscastle Puffin Perfection
Puffin Pair

We paddled past the extraordinarily craggy and eroded Long Island and on down the coast.

Long Island

Then we witnessed another major ornithological spectacle, only a few minutes after the images of the Puffins had faded from our retinas.

A Peregrine Falcon came streaking down towards the cliffs in a shallow stoop, and struck at a small pigeon which had appeared from nowhere. Somehow the pigeon avoided a full hit although it left a few feathers behind.

There then ensued the most incredible pursuit as the pigeon twisted and turned as close to the cliff face as it could, with the Peregrine repeatedly gaining a bit of height and stooping again as its victim, which somehow managed to avoid being caught by a whisker on several occasions, even when another falcon joined in with the hunt. The pigeon disappeared behind a rock close to the water and the Peregrine perched above.

Here it is:

Juvenile Peregrine

I was very surprised to see this is a juvenile bird, recently out of the nest. It still has some downy feathers on the back of its neck. An usually early brood.

You can see how close it came to securing a meal…pigeon feathers are still stuck in its talons!

We found the terrified pigeon just around the corner, cowering on a tiny ledge close to the water. Actually very clever, because it’s about the only place the Peregrines can’t reach.

Collared Dove

Not for the first time today I was totally amazed. What on earth was a Collared Dove doing along a super-exposed open cliff? They prefer a more cosy life of parks and gardens and are very much resident and reluctant to wander. I have certainly never seen one in this sort of environment before.

The most likely explanation is that the second falcon, the juvenile Peregrine’s parent, had caught the Collared Dove some way inland where it lived, and ‘live-dropped’ the poor bird for the youngster to chase.

Nature in the raw, but a happy outcome for the Dove…just. (Unless it got caught when it tried to escape its ledge)

Incidentally, I have no idea why the dove has a feather in its beak. Perhaps it doesn’t know either, and probably doesn’t care. It will be majorly traumatised…but relieved to still be alive.

Phew, lunch on a beach was in order after a surfeit of excitement:

North Cornish beach…not too shabby.

Of course we had to have a quick look at Tintagel, and the new bridge to the ‘island’, a couple of miles further down the coast. As Paul pointed out, the vast number of tourists on the island were packed in like the Guillemots on the cliffs.

Better to visit by kayak, that’s for sure.

Tintagel

The paddle back was super-enjoyable and just a little less eventful.

However I was very pleased to see a trio of Puffins on their ledge high up on one of the islands. I have never managed to locate this ledge before and suspect that nobody ever has, because looking with binoculars from a boat is impossible on 99 days out of 100 here, due to swell.

Puffins on their ledge

Puffins usually breed in burrows but do occasionally nest on ledges, such as in Dorset. These may have been ledge-nesting or have a burrow in one of the few vegetation-covered patches on the island nearby. Who knows, it is just great to see them apparently doing well here.

In fact we think we saw five Puffins in total, so there are probably three pairs here at present.

I must stop using so many exclamation marks…but I can’t help it!!

Puffin at Boscastle, 2 June 2022

Yet another TOP TRIP.

The Laugh of the Loon

One of the great joys of paddling around the coast in the middle of winter is the chance of an encounter with a Loon.

Loons (as they are called in the USA, they are known as Divers this side of the pond) are arguably the most attractively marked of all the breeding birds in the UK. They nest in Scotland and other countries further north, and migrate south in the autumn.

Here’s the three species that visit the coast of Devon and Cornwall during the winter:

Red-throated Diver (aka Red-throated Loon). Looe, October 2019
Black-throated Diver (aka Arctic Loon). Roseland April 2018.
Great Northern Diver (aka Common Loon). Mevagissey May 2018

To see one of the Diver species in full breeding plumage is unusual in the south. For most of their stay they are clothed in very much more modest winter garb.

They exploit slightly different niches along the coast. Great Northerns have a taste for crabs and flatfish so favour big open bays. They can dive deeper, further and longer than any other diving bird so although their favourite snacks are on the sea bed they don’t necessarily need to be close to the shore. They are the most numerous of the three species.

Red-throats eat shoaling fish so are quite happy far out to sea. They seem to prefer the north Cornish coast and particularly my local patch between Bude and Hartland Point (which is just over the border in Devon). I have seen them in flocks of over 100.

Black-throats are the most scarce, and favour a couple of bays in South Cornwall, where they hunt for small fish.

I was very pleased to come across my first close-up Great Northern in Mevagissey Bay a couple of weeks ago.

Great Northern Diver, Mevagissey

In fact it was part of a small flock of Great Northerns, which is unusual. At the time I was straining my eyes staring into the far distance to see if I could see any fin or splash appear beneath a circling Gannet which was about a mile away. I was convinced there would be a porpoise below but it was just too far off to see.

My attention was diverted by a soft, repeated call and I saw a dozen Loons sitting on the surface only a hundred yards in front of my nose.

Great Northern Divers, Mevagissey

They appeared to be taking time out… resting and preening and having a quiet chat. Probably all the local birds gathered together for a bit of a social. Listen to that very subdued and personal soft calls:

Divers at Mevagissey

I never carry binoculars on my kayak. I spend enough time staring through the lens of my camera, and that is challenging enough. There is usually far too much movement of the kayak to make observation through binoculars any value.

Even so, using my naked eyeballs, I could see that one of the Divers looked significantly smaller and leaner than the rest, and appeared to be more wary as it loitered at the back of the group. I immediately suspected that this was a rare Black-throated Diver, even though I have ever only seen one around the Cornish coast twice before.

My suspicions were confirmed when I glimpsed its white flank patch, which is diagnostic:

Great Northern Divers and Black-throated Diver (at the back).

The two Diver species provided a guide-book-type contrast-and-compare snapshot when they slipped past each other:

Black- throated (left) and Great Northern Diver

But best of all was the contact calls of the Divers. I have heard this laugh quite frequently, but usually as a single call and usually far away across the water.

I have never heard it repeated at such close range.

It is undoubtedly a call between one member of a family to another, and I think it is a parent to an offspring. I’m not sure what makes me say this because most of the calls of families on migration are the youngsters making demands of their parents. Sandwich Terns are a good example: the juveniles spend the entire time from the UK to the Med squealing at mum and dad.

See what you think in this video. It just sounds like a parent to me…

Laughing Loons

A great encounter with some of my favourite birds.

It’s interesting that my trusty old bird identification book states that these particular birds are ‘silent at sea’. No doubt because when it was written there was nobody paddling around in a kayak watching them, and they were always too far from the shore for their laugh to be heard from a shore-based observer.

To add to the ornithological excitement, a Peregrine was watching the show from a perch on the adjacent cliff.

Peregrine

To round the afternoon off nicely, the porpoise which I was willing my eyes to see at enormous range an hour before, surfaced with a puff close to my kayak. The Gannet was still in attendance, circling overhead.

Mevagissey porpoise

Happy New Year.

Dreamy Days of Summer

They already seem a long time ago.

Toasting sun, T-shirt ‘n shorts, light winds, relaxed paddling, smiles all round, lounging about on the beach.

The only downside is that the heat melts chocolate-based snacks. My Double-Decker Duos turn to gloop.

Here’s a trio of superb day trips along the south coasts of Devon and Cornwall , which never got as far as thelonekayaker blog because they were sideswiped into drafts by the mega marine wildlife bonanza that occurred during late summer this year.

1 Marazion

First up is a section of Mount’s Bay from Marazion to Prussia Cove. There’s not many islets more scenic than St.Michael’s Mount:

Emma, Mark, St.Michael (at rear)

Lots of seals loaf along this bit of coast, providing regular wildlife entertainment.

Mark and friend

And there are some great little hidden sun-soaked beaches for a spot of lunch.

Idyllic lunch beach

On this particular day the most interesting wildlife were the scattering of waders chilling out on the rocks around Marazion. Curlew, Whimbrel, Turnstone, Ringed Pover, Dunlin, Redshank, Oystercatcher and the odd Common Sandpiper. Although some of these would have been non-breeders, some would have been migrants, heading south after their breeding season was over.

Maybe a bit of a surprise, as this was the middle of July. In fact I usually see the first returning waders in June, before mid-summer’s day!

Ringed Plover, Sanderling, Dunlin

This little chap is definitely a migrant, because it was only born a month or two ago, on a boggy moorland……possibly even Dartmoor. It’s a juvenile Dunlin.

Juvenile Dunlin

2 Ladram Bay

The second trip was the super-scenic, and very understated, coastal paddle beneath brick red cliffs between Budleigh Salterton and Sidmouth. With Dave and Simon.

Launching from the steep shingle bank at Budleigh can be tricky if there is any sort of groundswell around, but on this particular day it was flat.

Heading east the red sandstone cliffs provide a very scenic backcloth for two or three miles.

And today were enhanced by the snickering of a fledgling Peregrine, echoing down from a mini amphitheatre in the cliff.

juvenile Peregrine

Its father was watching from a bit higher up the cliff. Absolutely nothing escapes the eye of the Peregrine. You can sense the scrutiny as you paddle past.

Adult peregrine

Ladram Bay is extraordinarily scenic. The cliffs disintegrate into a number of sandstone stacks, which can be admired from a conveniently located shingle beach, Ideal position, and ideal timing, for the first coffee break of the day.

Ladram Bay

We continued on to Sidmouth but avoided the temptation of an ice cream amongst the throng, and retraced our swirls to a deserted sandy beach just east of the Ladram stacks.

Sidmouth and beyond

TOP TIP: make sure it is high tide when you arrive by boat so you can enjoy the stacks to their full potential.

Ladram Bay

And watch out for the tourist boats.

3 Thurlestone Bay

Stunning day trip number three was in the South Hams, Hope Cove to Burgh Island. On one of the hottest days of the summer so minimal clothing was necessary. Although James opted to wear a shirt more suitable for a day in the office.

James’ unorthodox style
Hope Cove

The highlight has got to be the extraordinary Thurlestone rock. Hard to believe it is a natural feature and not a polystyrene model provided by Thurlestone Fun Park Inc., because it is so perfectly positioned right in the middle of the bay to provide entertainment for a horde of kayakers, paddleboarders and swimmers from the adjacent beach who have to queue up to get through.

Fortunately we were early enough to avoid the jam.

Thurlestone Rock, James and Dave

There’s some good rockhopping en route to Bantham beach, which is always busy. It is the best surfing beach in south Devon and catches any swell that is around. Today the swell was small but provided a little bit of entertainment and generated a few whoops of excitement.

Simon heading out
Avoiding the crowds at busy Bantham beach

Surfing a kayak is a good way to make yourself very unpopular with board surfers so we kept well out of the way. Maybe they’ve got a point…an out of control kayak bouncing sideways down a wave can wreak a fourteen foot swathe of destruction. I’ve seen it happen, up close. (oops).

We took a slingshot around Burgh Island after dragging the boats across the sand bar which had just been exposed by the receding tide. Lots of rocks to sneak behind around the exposed side of the island, and a lot of fellow kayakers and paddleboarders.

The Pilchard Hotel on Burgh Island

The trip back to Hope Cove was leisurely and included an exceptionally warm and pleasant lunch stop. Good beach, good company, Eccles cakes (good choice James, resistant to melting), lots of chuckles….

I was wondering why everyone on the beach gave us a wide berth….until I saw this pic…

Dave, yours truly, Simon, Paul

A fantastic day.

As the days darken, the wind roars, and the rain lashes, these dreamy summery trips are already ancient history.

Sunfish!

It’s been a good year for Sunfish so far. I’ve seen half a dozen, mostly ‘finning’ but a couple of breaches. Also I’ve glimpsed a few random slappy splashes out of the corner of my eye, which are also almost certainly jumping sunfish. They have all been very shy and dived long before I could get close enough for a pic, until……..

I really wasn’t expecting to have such an encounter today, because the moderate northerly wind kept me pinned firmly to the shelter of the coast. I paddled out from beautiful Caerhays beach, fortunately long before the sand was covered with these sunseekers.

caerhays
Caerhays

There is always some great wildlife to enjoy…..this morning it was Oystercatchers:

P1170211
Oystercatcher

and a family of Peregrines:

P1170228
juvenile Peregrine

I paddled out towards Dodman Point but not before a coffee break on a suitably secluded beach:

P1170221
My kind of beach

And just when I poked the nose of my kayak around the corner at Dodman Point, the wind dropped completely. I am very wary of this headland because it can throw up quite a tiderace, but I just couldn’t resist a quick ‘look’ out to sea, so paddled directly offshore. One and-a-half miles,, to be precise.

Manx Shearwaters started to zip past, and even three Balearic Shearwaters, and was that a tiny Storm Petrel flitting about? And then a fin flopping about at the surface. Mola Mola!

 

I engaged total stealth mode to get a bit closer. I have learnt from experience that some a really spooky, others are completely the opposite.

It looks more like a turtle in this Gopro clip.

 

I drifted right up next to it as it was wallowing about.

 

An extraordinary thing then happened. As it dived down at the end of this next clip I saw it starting to really beat its fin and angled upwards in front of me. It exploded from the surface and leapt three foot into the air, and when it landed it continued to flop about at the surface in typical dustbin lid style.

 

It’s a real pity that it had an injury to its left eye, which makes these next pictures slightly less dramatic. It was clearly an old injury and fortunately didn’t seem to compromise its behaviour. Maybe it had been caught in a net as a bycatch, there certainly seemed to be a few other scratchy scars on its skin.

sunfish 4
Ocean Sunfish

sunfish 5
Ocean Sunfish

 

Possibly the strangest fish in the ocean. How excellent is it that they can be seen in Cornwall. And its even better watching them from a kayak.

The biggest bony fish in the world are Sunfish, but this one was about typical for the size I have seen before around the SW coast….a bit less than a metre across.

sunfish 3
Holy Mola Mola!

In the Thick of the Action. Twice.

josh dolphins 5

Two consecutive days of full-on Dolphin action, including two large groups which may have qualified as superpods. It is very difficult to estimate the number of individuals in a confused mass of water, especially when one’s grey matter is on the verge of blowing a fuse with all the fizzing excitement.

This sort of stuff was way beyond my wildest dreams when I started offshore sea kayaking, but if you can be bothered to paddle miles and miles offshore for hours and hours, sooner or later you are going to come across some action.

Most likely a quiet little Porpoise puffing its way quietly along….

P1360693
Harbour porpoise

but every so often, especially in late summer, you are in for a bit of a treat.

P1360622

DAY 1: Berry Head, Brixham

My offshore paddle beyond Berry Head was initially halted by a bank of fog that rolled in when I was a mile off the headland. I had just seen a small pod of dolphins but they were suddenly consumed in the murk, and I had to navigate back to the headland using the GPS. Being out of sight of land is always a bit unsettling, but the greatest danger is being run over by some moron in a speedboat (or jetski).

 

 

The mist dispersed so I headed off again, directly out from Berry Head.

P1360735
Berry Head

The surface was initially a bit choppy, but smoothed off as the mist thinned, and I heard splashing behind me that came from a small pod of Common Dolphins. One had an unusually pale dorsal fin:

P1360639
pale-finned dolphin

Sights such as this ensure that you will be planning your next kayaking trip the minute you get home.

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Common Dolphin going for air

I was ‘checked out’ by four ‘Bonxie’ Great Skuas. Migrating seabirds always fly a bit closer to the coast during conditions of poor visibility, and these are on their way to spend the winter in the Atlantic after (probably) breeding in Scotland.

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Great Skua

Although the activity went quiet my aim was to paddle exactly five miles from Berry Head. When my GPS got precisely to 5.00 miles I stopped for a coffee and crunch cream. And heard a distant continuous splashy roar that was like surf breaking on a beach, coming from further out to sea. At the limit of vision I could just see a mass of dark shapes appearing at the surface.

Fifteen minutes of flat-out paddling later……..

 

 

I estimated 50-70 in the group and the general rule is that the actual number of dolphins is twice what you think. So probably 100+, and 100 qualifies as a superpod. Another first for thelonekayaker.

Two relaxed hours of paddling later, and another small pod of dolphins and a porpoise or two, I was back amongst (sort of) civilisation.

Tombstoners and a busy bank-holiday Brixham Breakwater beach.

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Brixham Tombstoners

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Breakwater beach and Brixham

DAY 2: Mount’s Bay, Penzance

I was meeting Henry’s friend Josh at Penzance at 7.30am. He was dead keen to see dolphins, so the pressure was on. I generally don’t go far offshore unless the wind forecast is less than 5mph. Any more and the kayak bounces around too much, you can’t hear blows and splashes above the sound of the breaking wavelets, and you can’t see a fin so well when the surface is not smooth.

I am also wary in taking anyone out far offshore in a kayak for a trip which could easily be twenty miles and seven to eight hours long. Not just because of safety, but it’s not everyone’s cup of tea, especially if you don’t see any dolphins, which is very possible because they are so wide-ranging.P1360811

Anyway, Josh seemed up for it, and we got off to a good start by seeing Eddie the resident Eider duck (in eclipse plumage), about a minute after getting on the water. The first one Josh had seen in UK.

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Eddie the Eider

Over the next two hours we swung three miles offshore past Mousehole and saw just one porpoise. The sea was choppy, with small whitecaps, and was steely grey under cloudy skies. Not great, especially as the wind was behind us which would make the long paddle back even longer.

But everything changed in an instant.

Half-a-mile ahead ten Gannets were circling and diving from a huge height. I knew that with such intense activity there would almost certainly be dolphins involved so we powered forward. Fins at the surface. Phew. Pressure off. Even better the sea suddenly smoothed off and the sun came out!

 

Josh was as enthralled and as excited I thought he would be. Listen to this clip carefully.

 

As the pod moved off we heard a persistent distant splashing a lot further out, so of course could not resist a bit of investigation…… it was a huge pod of dolphins spread over a large area, with hundreds of Manx Shearwaters zipping past and loafing about on the surface. Offshore kayak wildlife heaven. The shearwaters alone would have probably made the whole trip worthwhile.

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Manx Shearwaters

 

 

We spent a long time watching and enjoying, basically sat right in the middle of the action. It was a feast for the ears as much as the eyes, surrounded by a permanent sloshing and splashing and puffing. Common Dolphins are my favourite cetacean for that precise reason…they are so energetic and active.

And then we heard the blow of a whale. Loud and long and a blast that sounds like it is coming out of a very wide tube. It was not easy to work out precisely where the noise came from, so we stared in the general direction, and wished the dolphins would quieten down a bit (how amazing is that….not being able to hear a whale for the sound of splashing dolphins!). Nothing more for a long while, then another non-directional blast of breath and that was it….we never saw it, although Josh thinks he saw a long back in front of a curved fin for an instant.

But come on, Josh, it’s  a bit much to see a whale on your first ever offshore wildlife kayak trip.

So he had to settle for a dolphin superpod instead. Tough.

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I had been watching a very black-looking thunderstorm gathering in the south. We were ninety minutes paddling time from the shore and it is not a great idea to be stuck out in the middle of the sea holding a carbon-fibre paddle if there is lightning around.

We started to head in as the first drops of rain started to fall (so a bit late, probably), but the dolphins hadn’t finished with us.

The biggest dolphin of the pod swum right in between us….

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Josh and big dolphin

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King of the dolphins and thelonekayaker! (thanks for the pic, Josh)

 

and it then escorted us away by riding our bow wave for a few minutes as we sped towards the shore.

More distraction when we were a couple of miles from the security of Mousehole. An unusually large pod of Harbour Porpoises, probably in excess of twenty. Same routine, we just quietly approached and sat completely still and the action ( quiet and porpoisey, unlike the animated dolphins) happened around us…..often behind us!

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It’s behind you….three porpoises (if you look closely)

 

We rolled into Mousehole for lunch (sandwiches) on the harbour wall in the rain, and headed back to Penzance as it eased off, narrowly avoiding getting tombstoned.

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Mousehole

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Mousehole tombstoners

One more wildlife nugget awaited us as we arrived back at Penzance Harbour after our seventeen mile, seven hour trip. Tucked in amongst the Turnstones roosting at high tide was this cracking Knot, still with a wash of orange summer plumage. A migrant from the high arctic.

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Napping Knot and Turnstone

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Knot and Turnstone

So, two very large pods of dolphins on two consecutive days in two different counties, both probably exceeding the magical number of a hundred to make them superpods.

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Jump for joy.

 

 

 

August Wildlife: Up the Creek to Open Sea

The encounter with the Humpback  (on 2nd Aug) is the most exciting wildlife spectacle I have witnessed from my kayak, by quite a long way.

Explosive drama.

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Humpback Whale

The scene is rather more serene at the upper tidal limit of the River Torridge. In fact not a lot could be more serene.

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Torridge Swans

The Swan family are thriving and drift about in the complete silence of a late summer morning.

 

 

 

 

Unfortunately the family with three cygnets on the River Tamar is not doing so well.

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Morwellham Swans

They are now down to one youngster as I passed the corpses of the other two cygnets yesterday floating at the surface, over a mile apart. ????

Most birds stopped singing at the end of June when their breeding season came to an end, but swallows are an exception and are not only still singing, there are still young in the nest. Some pairs will rear a third brood which may not fledge until early October.

The soundtrack  of the summer.

 

The top of the tidal estuaries are fresh water and are the home of Dippers who just can’t resist bobbing.

 

 

 

 

One of the bonuses of choosing Devon and Cornwall as a kayaking destination is the hundreds of miles of sheltered creek to explore when the exposed coast and open sea is lashed by wind, as it has been on and off for the last couple of weeks.

 

 

 

 

It’s great to see the pretty little Mandarin Ducks that seem to have made the Upper Torridge their home. They originate from escapes from collections and have only been in this area for a few years.

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Mandarin Duck

Heading down towards the sea Curlews demonstrate how to spruce oneself up despite an enormous bill, and Little Egrets spear little fish in the shallows.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The flock of Black-headed gulls is irresistible to a passing Peregrine that slices through the middle of them. You will see it cut through the flock from right to left. Unsuccessfully, on this occasion. It looks brownish so it is probably a this year’s youngster.

 

 

 

 

This next clip is a bit depressing. A Herring gull with a plastic bag wrapped round its leg. I don’t fancy its chances.

 

 

 

Seals sometimes venture far up the estuaries because there is the potential for good fishing. Even if salmon and sea trout are not as numerous as they used to be, there’s plenty of mullet that follow the tide in.

This is a Harbour Seal well up the Fowey estuary. It clearly wants to take a mid-morning nap  but is unfortunately spooked by the approach of a rowing scull.

 

 

I have sneaked out along the coast during the very few spells of lighter wind during the last few weeks. The Turnstones have returned to the barnacle encrusted rocks. Here one is still in full summer plumage (the smarter-looking bird) while the other is in the less smart winter plumage.

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Turnstones, Mevagissey

It was a bit of a surprise to see a Redshank out on the rocky coast…they usually prefer the mud of estuaries. On migration, no doubt.

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Torbay Redshank (looking a bit knock-kneed)

The problem with wearing Crocs for kayaking is that when you stop for a cup of coffee and a Crunch Cream and walk across a beach they have an almost magnetic attraction for the most painful and spiky stones and shells to get inside and poke the soles of your feet.

It’s a common occurrence, but this is the first one to have been alive.

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Hermit Crab in Croc

At Mevagissey this is the first Crystal jellyfish I have seen this year…didn’t they star in Avatar, by the Tree of Life?

 

 

Grey Seals always make me chuckle when they are ‘bottling’ i.e. sleeping vertically in the water. They can be really deep asleep and I have actually accidentally bumped into them before.

This one at Mevagissey was certainly fairly well gone and you can hear it snoring. Fortunately I didn’t disturb it at all and managed to depart the scene without it apparently waking.

 

 

I came across more seals in Torbay; a woolly-looking bull Grey Seal and a perky Harbour Seal. Harbour seals used to be rare in SW England but they seem to be slowly invading.

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Grey Seal bull, Thatcher Rock

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Harbour Seal, Thatcher Rock

There has been a single window of opportunity for an offshore paddle during the last couple of weeks, lasting only a few hours and early in the morning. The Cornish Riviera at Mevagissey was my destination and I was very pleased to see half-a-dozen Porpoises and a little pod of four Common Dolphins.

Way beyond my expectations on a choppy day.

As usual a couple of adults came over to assess the threat I posed to the juvenile that they were escorting. Fortunately I was quickly deemed to be safe and they carried on feeding close to the kayak. I sometimes half-wish that they would hesitate for a split second before making up their minds, as if they had mistaken me for an impressive creature such as an Orca or a Great white. But they don’t. One glimpse and they have got me pigeonholed alongside floating logs and marine detritus.

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Gorran Haven Common Dolphin

 

 

 

 

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Common Dolphin and Tectona (sail-training ship)

For the next week or so the dolphins wont have to worry whether I am a Killer Whale or piece of flotsam, because I will not be out there in the strong wind. The weather is currently so poor and all other paddling venues so chopped-up, or with unfavourable tides, that the only suitable location is the good-old Bude Canal.

 

Sizzling Summer Part Two: The Sensational Wildlife of Southwest England

 

We’ll start off below the surface and work upwards, culminating in an encounter to match anything you will see in the natural world, anywhere.

High summer means a jellyfish boom in the waters around Devon and Cornwall. The lack of rain and calm conditions has made the water crystal clear, so the jellyfish look even better than usual.

Following record numbers during the spring, there are still plenty of Barrel Jellyfish around, up to about four foot long.

 

 

 

 

Compass jellies are my favourite, because of there intricate colour scheme and the fact that they are ‘proper’ jellies because, unlike Barrel jellies, they have a sting.

 

 

 

 

New kids on the block for July are Moon Jellies. How appropriate for the anniversary of the lunar landings. They occur in huge numbers and concentrate around the current lines.

 

 

 

 

As usual there are plenty of seals dotted along the coast, concentrating in their favourite rocky haulouts. There is no doubt they are increasingly tolerant of humans, it’s dogs they really don’t like. They have very acute hearing and a dog barking half-a-mile away can make them more agitated than a kayaker bobbing about a few feet away.

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They show only a passing interest in waterskiers……..P1340660

and are quite happy to be the stars of the show:P1340663

A big hazard for seals is fast moving craft. This injury is probably caused by an impact with a boat, although it could conceivably be the result of a fight.

 

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I was thrilled to meet up with this Harbour Seal along the south Cornwall coast. Harbour Seals are rare in SW England, the majority are the bigger, and arguably less attractive Grey Seals.

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Harbour Seal

 

 

 

 

Cetacean viewing from my kayak is my favourite occupation, because it is so challenging. Most porpoises, dolphins and whales hunt miles from the shore so just getting out to where they might be is not easy, and when eventually a day comes along which is calm enough for you to make the considerable effort to get out there, they are so widely scattered that you almost certainly won’t see them.

A smooth surface is the key to success and this month I have been lucky enough to see three different species: Harbour Porpoise, Common Dolphin and Risso’s Dolphin. I might even call it three and-a-half because a glimpse of a big back disappearing below the water followed by a big swirl while down at Penzance was almost certainly a Minke Whale. If only I had looked round a quarter of a second earlier…….

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Porpoise in a rush, Portscatho

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Common Dolphin in even more of a rush, Looe

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Risso’s Dolphin taking a look, Sennen

Guillemots and Razorbills have completed their breeding on the sea cliffs and have now headed far out to sea. Just a few stragglers are reluctant to depart.

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Bude Guillemot

Manx Shearwaters are constant companions offshore, zipping past the kayak in compact groups, or resting on the surface.

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Manx Shearwater

I have been very pleased to have seen several Oystercatcher chicks along the coast this year. Like other waders, which are all declining, they are ground-nesting and so disturbance by dogs is a big issue.

This pair chose a little rocky promontory to raise their two youngsters.

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Oystercatcher plus chick

We are going to take a jaunt inland up the rivers now, before returning to the coast for my grand finale.

I am very excited to have seen this next little wildlife gem recently. I was very familiar with Water Voles when I was a teenager in Berkshire, as you can see from my entries in my wildlife diary 1975. In those days I sported a luxuriant (but greasy) mop of hair and my knees were composed of bone, not titanium. You could guarantee a handful of water vole sightings during a short visit to the Thames or one of its tributaries.

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Entry in my wildlife book….from 44 years ago (gulp..that’s nearly half a century)

Then Mink came along and ate nearly all of them.

This is the first Water Vole I have seen for decades. It was beside the very upper reaches of the Thames, so just about (or very nearly) qualifies for SW England. Even if it doesn’t quite qualify it is GREAT to see.

 

 

 

 

I took this next video clip, of a very similar-looking, but very much larger herbivore beside the upper reaches of an estuary which was definitely in Southwest England.

A Beaver enjoying breakfast. 

 

 

 

 

We now float off downstream, back to the open coast.

Peregrine falcons are not uncommon, but to actually see one making a kill is exceptional. If you see one in hunting mode, or just starting a stoop, it will probably be out of sight (either round a headland or disappeared into the distance) by the time it strikes its prey. Even if you see the final moments of the plunge, they frequently miss.

I had only picked Jed up from the station in Exeter a couple of hours previously, so I was very pleased to be able to show him a Peregrine, as a fledgling snickered at its passing parent. I told him to watch that passing pigeon closely, just in case the  falcons had a ‘go’ at it.

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Jed aghast

They certainly did. The adult and young Peregrine stooped in a shallow dive at the pigeon, there was a mid-air scuffle of wings for a split second, and then the struggling pigeon was just about scrambled to the rocks on the shore, secured in the talons of the peregrine that was losing height fast with the weight.

All in a few seconds, and a hundred yards away, and as usual I was hoping for an action replay to work out exactly what just happened. Looking at my pics later helped.

It is a juvenile Peregrine holding the pigeon (streaked breast, not barred). It looks as though the pigeon is a youngster as well (no white flashes on its neck), so was maybe easier to catch.

I’m pretty sure the young Peregrine actually caught the pigeon itself, although I might have expected the adult bird to have made the catch, and then passed it to its offspring as part of its training. I think the young bird had already progressed on to making its own ‘kills’, or perhaps this was its very first, and amazingly successful, effort!

I’m also pretty sure I saw the adult actually herd the pigeon in the direction of the young falcon because it was flying in the opposite direction a few seconds before the stoop.

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Juvenile Peregrine clasping Woodpigeon

Peregrines have a notch in their upper mandible to nip the spinal cord of their avian victims to kill them outright. This young bird didn’t do that (probably hadn’t had that lesson yet) so the unfortunate pigeon was still very much alive, and still flapping, as the Peregrine takes it behind a rock and out of sight to deal with it.

 

 

 

 

Here is the action again slowed down even further.

 

 

 

 

Fantastic. One of the great spectacles of the natural world. In my opinion right up there with things like seeing a Lion taking an antelope. Maybe even better, because it happened right here on our ‘doorstep’ and I suspect fewer people have seen a peregrine make a kill than a lion. All played out as we watched from the comfort of a kayak seat. And a completely random sight that only comes from putting in the hours of paddling. In my case, many thousands of hours. In Jed’s case, an hour and-a-half. Lucky.

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Cod, Seal, Beaver

Before we get to the REALLY exciting wildlife encounters here’s a selection of other stuff I have observed recently while paddling silently along.

The first was actually on the end of a fishing line. I havn’t done any kayak-fishing for a few years but my plan for later in the summer to lure some Blue Sharks within range of my Gopro meant I had to catch some mackerel for ‘bait’. My rod nearly got jerked out my hand when ten pounds of fish, consisting of two Pollack and a Cod, pounced upon the mackerel feathers simultaneously. I released the Pollack and was tempted to take the Cod home for tea, but it somehow managed to read my thoughts and with a mighty effort leaped overboard.

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Pollack,Pollack,Cod

Next to the beautiful Avon estuary in south Devon,

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Avon Estuary at Bantham

where I came upon the largest brood of Shelduck I have seen this spring/summer.

Fifteen Ducklings!

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I was very pleased to see that the swans which were nesting beside the upper reaches of my local estuary, the Torridge, had successfully hatched out five cygnets. It’s always better when it’s on your local ‘patch’.

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Torridge cygnets

Charlie L and I had a superb peregrine encounter off a particularly dramatic cliffy bit of South Devon. 20190621_082115

A female peregrine came labouring in off the sea carrying a large prey item, followed casually by the male bird. It landed on a small headland and as it plucked the victim the feathers drifted off downwind. We assumed the prospective meal was dead, but in a sudden flurry of wings the pigeon escaped and sprinted off around the corner, hotly pursued by the hungry falcon.

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Peregrine (male)

It apparently didn’t get far because the peregrine and meal (half eaten) flew past again later. Nice try though.

Looe island never disappoints because it is private and so free from wandering dogs, which can terrify wildlife. It was great to see a couple of fledgling oystercatchers dozing on the beach. They are usually very difficult to observe because on the approach of anything remotely resembling a threat, including an ageing kayaker, the parents pipe a warning call and the youngsters immediately rush into a dark corner and hide.

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Fledgling Oystercatchers

Oystercatcher adults are very vocal and as usual there was a lot of shouting going on:

 

For the first time I can recall I saw an Oystercatcher swimming in the sea. This is very unusual and I think it was probably a tactic to lure a walker away from their youngsters who were probably hunkered down on the beach where they had hatched. You can see the interloper in the video:

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Swimming Oystercatcher

 

I was expecting to see Willis the resident Whimbrel as I paddle along the beach, but instead was very surprised to come across this Bar-tailed Godwit. A bit drab to look at but legendary amongst bird enthusiasts because of its huge migration feats, with a non-stop flight in excess of 6,800 miles being the longest recorded of any bird. Was this bird late onn its way north to arctic breeding grounds, or an early departer for the south. Who knows?

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Bar-tailed Godwit

I did indeed come across Willis the Whimbrel later, similar in plumage, but not in beak, to the Godwit.

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Willis the Whimbrel

On the same reef was Eric the resident Eider. Both of these species should migrate north in the summer but have clearly decided that life at Looe is just too pleasant to desert for half the year.

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Eric the Eider taking a nap

As usual I was investigated by a couple of inquisitive seals, one of which looked remarkably like Nudger, a young male Grey Seal who clambered out onto my kayak deck last year. Here he is in August (ignore the date stamp which is wrong):

 

Today’s seal was bit darker and appeared to have different markings to Nudger, but his behaviour and apparent enjoyment of draping seaweed over his head, and swimming upside down, were identical to Nudger.P1320643

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It was, as usual, great to see this creature which is very ungainly out of the water, wafting about with effortless ease.

 

 

 

Tremendously exciting, but this experience was eclipsed by my first ever sighting of a Beaver, not only in the UK but anywhere in the world. My ultra early start paid off, although I was hoping to see an otter.

This clip was taken just after 5am, in Southwest England!