Ten Minutes…Two Top Predators

I was having a bit of an ‘off’ day when I paddled out of Fowey estuary a week ago. I don’t know why, but my brain just wouldn’t engage and kept drifting off.

Went to bed too late…unlikely. Getting too old…probably. Irritated that I forgot to pack that Raisin and Biscuit Yorkie Duo for mid-morning snack…definitely!

It doesn’t really matter that you are not fully tuned-in for the fifteen-minute leisurely paddle amongst the mass of moored yachts before gaining access to the open sea.

Nothing sudden is going to happen.

A cruise liner had just arrived and was dominating the scene.

Cruise Liner ‘Vasco de Gama’

By the time I arrived off the headland half an hour later I was hoping that my brain fugg might have dispersed. Like mist on a heated rear window in a car of yesteryear it was taking a bit of shifting.

I could feel it in my bones that something dramatic was about to occur so I needed to snappy up…fast.

Too late. An entire shoal of Garfish leapt out of the water a few feet in front of my kayak. Had I been on the ball I would have grabbed my camera bag from behind my seat faster than a striking Cobra and be unfurling the seal in a blurr of whirring fingers, because I knew what was coming next.

The Garfish leapt again and I just sat and gawped.

As expected a monstrous Tuna then exploded from the surface with a roar of water a couple of metres in front of me, sending one fish spiralling in to the air high above it.

A real whopper of a fish.

I continued gawping.

It re-entered in a surprisingly splash-free dive and was gone…and that was the show finished.

This is how it looked and this is what I should have pictured had I be ‘on it’.

Thanks to son Henry for these amazing pics:

Garfish scattering (pic: Henry Kirkwood)
Atlantic Bluefin Tuna leaping (pic: Henry Kirkwood)

Or maybe I would have been too slow anyway. My best scramble time for getting my camera out of its bag and ready for action is 12.68 seconds (approx) and all this happened a bit quicker than that.

Camera in the grey dry bag. Ready for action…or not.

Whatever my photographic failure, the phenomenal burst of violent action just in front of my nose had reconnected the claggy synapses in my brain so I was now thinking more clearly than Melvyn Bragg.

That’s better. This is how I like to be. Completely plugged in to everything that is going on around. If anything twitches a whisker or sneezes it will not go undetected. Maybe it’s called mindfulness. Mindemptyness might be more accurate in my case, because I find it is essential to clear out the clutter first.

Whatever, it’s all very addictive…and enjoyable.

So when I heard the squeal of another of the world’s most finely-honed top predators only a few minutes later, I reacted faster than if I had been tasered.

It was the sneering snicker of a juvenile Peregrine Falcon begging for food, a sound that echoes around many of the remotest cliffs and coves around Devon and Cornwall in mid-summer when the youngsters leave the nest. It is a magical sound and is incredibly far-carrying. On a still day I have heard it clearly while sitting five miles offshore. It’s one of the great sounds of the coastal wilderness.

If your brain is tuned in to the wildlife channel, it sends a shiver of electricity up your spine.

I engaged max stealth mode and sneaked along close to the shore towards the noise, using the rocky islets as cover in the style of John Wayne.

I nearly missed them. Only twenty metres ahead…two peregrines perched on top of a barnacle-encrusted rock. One looking very large, the other surprisingly small and lean.

Luckily I was almost completely hidden from their view by a rock. I whipped my camera out of its bag in what must have been record time because I didn’t want two foul-ups in less than an hour.

Peregrine pair

The falcons were too busy to worry about me. The bird on the right was bigger not just because she was the female but because she was fluffed up and ‘mantling’ over a recent kill. The male, very sensibly, was keeping clear and not involved with the feast.

Peregrine plus breakfast

The juvenile-style snickering was a bit of a puzzle. Typically I don’t hear that noise after the youngsters become self-sufficient by about the end of August.

Also this falcon had the plumage of an adult bird. I wonder if it had just ‘begged’ the meal off the male in the manner of a juvenile before I had arrived upon the scene.

Dunno, but that’s the appeal of paddling around quietly observing all this fantastic wildlife. Gets yer thinking ‘n all.

The male departed and I watched the female relishing her jackdaw victim. That’s what it looked like, anyway. Black and small crow-sized.

I generally keep well clear of Peregrines because they usually have a very definite tolerance limit of human approach and I wonder whether the reason some pairs have deserted their traditional nesting cliffs around the coast of Cornwall is because of increased disturbance by go-anywhere craft such as kayaks and paddleboards. Perhaps combined with many more walkers and their dogs wandering along the coast path on the top of cliff.

Cliffs in Cornwall are generally lower than in Devon so potential for disturbance is greater…and there doesn’t seem to be such a problem in Devon.

Peregrine Falcon

So I rarely have the opportunity to grab photos such as this of the world’s fastest creature.

Unfortunately it WAS then spooked by some fishermen who came clambering over the rocks. Pity, but it didn’t seem too fussed when it relocated to a cliff and continued to munch.

On the way back to Fowey I loitered off the headland again in the hope of another tuna encounter but there was not a sniff of any action.

Moral of today: ‘Expect the unexpected, because unexpected things occur when you are least expecting’. I’m sure Melvyn Bragg would approve.

Canada: Dolphins, Bears, Eagles, Otters and the Little Stuff

Wildlife is sparse in the pine forests of Vancouver Island. You might hear the chatter of a Red Squirrel, the laugh of a Pileated woodpecker, the cackle of a Steller’s Jay or the ‘cronk’ of a pair of Ravens. A few Turkey vultures float overhead.

Most of the action is concentrated down by the shore and out into the swirling channels, because the sea, and seashore is BURSTING with life. The tide is a delivery lorry stuffed full of goodies that arrives, regular as clockwork, twice a day.

The headliners are the Orcas and the Humpbacks, with Sea Lions and Bald Eagles a reliable back-up.

Steller’s Sea Lions taking a look/sniff

The Eagles are a guaranteed crowd-pleaser because they are very big, very striking and very common. They sit high on a tree overlooking the forward waiting for a meal-sized fish to loiter just a little too long at the surface. Not a lot evades that piercing gaze.

Bald Eagle. If your a fish, it’s time to make yourself scarce..

In the manner of a Bald Eagle, we too were straining our eyes for anything that moved as we slid silently through the glass-calm water in our kayaks. We were in extreme wildlife-watching mode.

Not a lot escaped our gaze.

Knowing precisely where to look is always a challenge, however. Typically, if you scrutinise the open sea the wildlife appears on the shoreline:

Raccoon on the beach. Looking guilty.

And then when you look along the shore a load of fins pop up out to sea:

Pacific White-sided Dolphins. Packed in like sardines!

I had an excellent early-morning encounter with a pod of these beautifully-marked Pacific White-sided dolphins, with their snappy-looking swept back dorsal fins. It was before any of the local boat engines had fired up so it was perfectly peaceful:

Video

The dolphins seem to get really excited when the sea surface livens up a bit…

White-sided dolphins. Pedal to the metal.

And when it comes to bow-riding boats…as far as the dolphins are concerned, the bigger the better. Cruise Liner…yes, please!

Pacific White-sided Dolphin loving life

A pleasant surprise during the final day of our six-day kayak camping trip was an encounter with a Sea Otter.

It is impossible not to like these teddy-bear photogenic and gentle creatures and be impressed by their relaxed approach to life. As they float buoyantly on their backs it is hard to believe that they are not supported by an enormously comfortable sun-lounger just below the surface.

Sea Otter. Redefining Relaxation

To make their lazy Sunday afternoon aura complete, they even seem to be sporting a pair of carpet slippers.

Look at those size twelves

Their cuddly and cosy appearance is the result of wearing the most dense coat of any mammal on the planet. This was known by eighteenth century fur traders as ‘Soft Gold’ and when the ‘Great Hunt’ for the pelts of these innocent little creatures had run its course, there were only one or two thousand left in the wild.

Since 1911 they have been protected and a recent reintroduction program on Vancouver Island has been a great success.

Sea Otter with lunch

Phew, there would be a gigantic void if they weren’t around.

We didn’t want to leave Vancouver Island without a satisfactory bear encounter, as we had only seen a few crossing the road, including a mother and cubs. Just fleeting views.

Whilst we were lying in bed in a creek-side house in the early hours, we could hear large stones being rolled over on the beach followed by a munching sound as the crunchy creatures that were hiding below were consumed.

When the light of dawn filtered through we could see the crunching muncher was a Black Bear.

Black Bear…Vancouver Island

Over the next couple of days we watched this one plus several of its chums feeding along the low-tide shoreline. No disturbance caused, lovely and peaceful, prolonged views…bear watching at its best. Absolutely excellent.

Even better, I ticked off another mega-species seen from the seat of a kayak.,,

Bear and The Lone Kayaker (pic from video: Henry Kirkwood)

We spent our final week in the south of Vancouver Island on Mayne Island. It is much more populated than the north of Vancouver Island so we were quite surprised that the most showy creatures here, surprisingly, were North American River Otters.

North American River Otters

There were lots of them. They are very similar to our European Otters and hotwired to be slinky and very wary, but they seemed to be quite happy to fish along the shore during the day. There are very few dogs around to chase them which I’m sure makes them a bit more tolerant of human activity nearby.

Unlike Sea Otters that don’t need to come ashore because they extract the water they require from the food they eat, River Otters need a source of fresh water to drink and frequently scamper up the beach to find a freshwater pool.

We saw two families of five plus another group of three and several pairs so they seemed to be thriving on this island..

There is certainly no shortage of their favourite food…crabs…although this feisty little crustacean seems to be putting up a bit of resistance:

Otter vs Crab* (pic from video Henry Kirkwood ) *crab loses

I absolutely love otters. So all this was an unexpected bonus.

Familiar faces amongst the wildlife smorgasbord were Ospreys, Great Northern Divers (Loons) and Harbour Seals, a handful of the very few species that have a circumglobal distribution.

Harbour Seal

Now onto the REALLY little stuff. Wildlife gems that are often overlooked.

Most of the offshore seabirds of the North Pacific have an astonishing tale to tell as they migrate long distances and breed in extreme places. Such as this extremely unremarkable looking, but excellently named, Marbled Murrelet.

Marbled Murrelet

Most of their near relations that spend most of their time at sea are essentially black above and white below. But Marbled Murrelets in breeding plumage are a warm buffy brown and there is a particular reason for this.

Although common, nobody knew where they bred until 1974 when a nest was found far inland 200ft up a Douglas Fir in a clump of moss!

And of you are nesting in a mossy clump, brown is the best camouflage!

During the winter when they are exclusively out to sea they revert to a more conventional black above and white below outfit.

They were joined on the water by close relations with an even better name: Ancient Murrelets…

Ancient Murrelets

And flitting about over their heads like bats were Fork-tailed Storm Petrels:

Fork-tailed Storm Petrel

I am aware this interest in these small seabirds is a bit niche, so I’ll just tell you about one more.

The stunning Red-necked Phalarope. It’s another little beauty with a tremendous name. They were busily picking at plankton.

Red-necked Phalaropes

To see a Phalarope from a kayak in UK is big event. I’ve only ever achieved it four or five times. In Canada they were common but the excitement of seeing these dainty little birds was still there…

The Cassin’s and Rhinoceros Auklets will have to wait for another time.

That’s it from Canada.

Cheerio.

(pic: Henry Kirkwood)